How about bootlegging a hit-tamer setup for us? If I get the Olds back in tact within reasonable cost, I'd buy one.
You got me.
I already have it half concepted in my mind. I like his idea but not 100% a fan of some of the components and think there is a big improvement for the timer & user interface system.
I 100% think this system needs a clutch pressure sensor and display to actually see what the clutch line pressure is doing. I don't see much success by just turning the valve until it works. I want to know how many seconds it takes to fully clamp the clutch. For me with EFI i have a computer display but for you without an input, you really need a display so you can see how fast the clutch is coupling (compare 0.2 second or 0.7 seconds to whatever setting on the valve) which this system doesn't have. 10 years ago this was hard but not it's doable with hobby electronics. That way if you bog the launch with a known 0.2s clamp time, you can turn the dial on the valve a bit and test in the staging lanes by just releasing the clutch when the car is in neutral and see how much dial adjustment gets a desired clutch apply time. Then long term if you are at a sticky track you know 0.2 second release time will spin, 0.5s will bog, and 0.7s will work well. Then if you go to a greasy track where it always spins, it takes 0.9 seconds for it to not spin, or spin moderately.
Basically I need a 2 position, 2 way, normally open, 12V solenoid controlled poppet valve that is controlled by some type of proximity switch to 1st gear to turn the system on or off. If the valve is normally open (not active) flow goes from the master directly to the TOB and bypasses the control valve (literally just a needle valve). Having a switch that is closed when the shifter is in 1st gear that interfaces with the shifter somehow would be ideal, that way you would not need to do any timers or switches to activate the system like they use to deactivate the system for 2nd gear. There also needs to be a check valve in the master cylinder to TOB line so when you push the clutch down the needle valve never has an effect regardless the valve position.
If the switch is active (in 1st gear) flow is routed through the needle valve, (what they call the 1st stage control valve). Theirs looks pretty but could be easily done with a simple smaller valve.
Basically launch procedure would be pull into the beams, shift to neutral with the clutch pedal released, flip an 'arm' switch on the dash to active the system, push the clutch pedal down which puts pressure in the TOB, put the trans in 1st which would close the activate button and reroute clutch flow through the valve and through the control or needle valve, side step the clutch (dialing in the bleed off rate for the track), push clutch and shift to second, shifter is now out of 1st gear so the system is deactivated and all other shifts are non dampened.
The Circle Seal model SV10A2NC4P43 solenoid valve is constructed in Aluminum with Nylatron seat(s) and Buna-N seals, and has a 24/28 VDC coil.
fluidprocess.com