A little overdue

[CopperNick]

Fred Flintstone just called.........................Yabba-Dabba-Do!!

 

[JD1964]

Here’s the pans we cut out of the Monte in a junkyard. They fit good but we still need to do some additional patching around the edges to ensure a solid structure for mounting. We have stainless and galvanized sheet metal available for that.

 

[Screwz]

I’m so glad I don’t live in the north anymore.

 

[nycutlass]

I’m so glad I don’t live in the north anymore.

i dont even drive my car when the hint of snow is coming or they have to put salt down. When they do salt i wait for at least 2 good rains to even poke my car out the garage

 

[Screwz]

i dont even drive my car when the hint of snow is coming or they have to put salt down. When they do salt i wait for at least 2 good rains to even poke my car out the garage

I grew up in Minnesota is I understand rust . I live in Arkansas now and the cars are so clean.

 

[JD1964]

Goin to town with the air nibbler

 

[JD1964]

In case you’re wondering how we plan to put this all together. Here goes

The products are the metal patches, POR15, 3/16x1/2” pop rivets with washers, Flex Paste < the stuff is great and I’ve used it on multiple other projects with lasting results. Note: flex paste, not flex seal

1. Cut away and metal that has no structural value.

2. Make or acquire patches to cover removed material.

3. Scale and treat all surfaces with POR15.

4. Position panels and drill the first few rivet holes.

5. Put flex paste on panel overlap areas and push panels into place. Level off and excess flex paste that spooges out of the seams.

6. Install initial rivets then drill and install remaining needed rivet positions.

7. Fill all gaps above and below with flex paste.

8. Skim coat flex paste over any weaker surfaces that need to be beefed up.

9. Spray flex “seal” over finished surfaces for final sealing.

 

[nycutlass]

In case you’re wondering how we plan to put this all together. Here goes

The products are the metal patches, POR15, 3/16x1/2” pop rivets with washers, Flex Paste < the stuff is great and I’ve used it on multiple other projects with lasting results. Note: flex paste, not flex seal

1. Cut away and metal that has no structural value.

2. Make or acquire patches to cover removed material.

3. Scale and treat all surfaces with POR15.

4. Position panels and drill the first few rivet holes.

5. Put flex paste on panel overlap areas and push panels into place. Level off and excess flex paste that spooges out of the seams.

6. Install initial rivets then drill and install remaining needed rivet positions.

7. Full all gaps above and below with flex paste.

8. Skim coat flex paste over any weaker surfaces that need to be beefed up.

9. Spray flex “seal” over finished surfaces for final sealing.

I don't think Flex Seal or any kind of "FLEX products" is a good idea I would use seam seal just my two cents

 

[Supercharged111]

I dunno, I'd expect galavanetic corrosion would knock out the plain metal meaning the stainless would fall off first...

I thought stainless on stainless caused galvanic corrosion and stainless on mild allevaited that?

 

[ck80]

I thought stainless on stainless caused galvanic corrosion and stainless on mild allevaited that?

Opposite. Stainless on mild steel. Steel on aluminum. It takes two different types of metal, then the weaker metal corroded from the contact when exposed to a conductive solution (water with road salt?)

Now, if you fastened two pieces of stainless with plain steel hardware, that plain hardware would be in for issues..