A new & improved thread on my exhaust joys. Making progress.
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Part of the visual inspection in Pa for my county. Hell I even have a smog pump just to be there for that reason. If I get fustrated enough I might just have to "customize" them for better flow. 😉
I know, after all the fighting with that tail pipe something stupid like that would happen. I'll fix it with a body lift & 22's.Just wait until you put the body on, and it hits the floor!!!
Working with how everything is going to hang & the gap between the X-member & the cats as if they were to be directly under them. The X-pipe is being used to also help in gauging clearance so when I make the two pipes to replace it everything still clears.
No sniffer type test in my county but the state requires for visual the cat, EGR, PCV, smog pump, vaper canister. As long as they are "visable" on the car I'm good. I'm actually set up to add injector tubes just incase there is/has been any changes since my last check on the law. When I did the first engine swap I ran dual cats cause I still lived in Pittsburgh & Allegheny county does sniffer test, they helped to get my pass. If I ever find out there is a change on the visual to where they won't check I'll be tossing what I don't need. The cats will be installed for easy removal if they don't end up getting "customized".
New York completely suxx in every possible way.
But if it's pre 96 and it has 4 wheels your good to go !!!
Yep that's a car, you can't fool me here is your sticker.
But if it's pre 96 and it has 4 wheels your good to go !!!
Yep that's a car, you can't fool me here is your sticker.
You are going to hate me...
You need to move that x-pipe as close to the output/tailshaft as possible. The way you have it now is going to cause massive issues with driveshaft interference (especially when the rearend droops).
I was faced with the same issue with the wagon and cats (at least you don't have long tubes)... hence the heavy amount of fabrication on the x-pipe to make it all work.
You need to move that x-pipe as close to the output/tailshaft as possible. The way you have it now is going to cause massive issues with driveshaft interference (especially when the rearend droops).
I was faced with the same issue with the wagon and cats (at least you don't have long tubes)... hence the heavy amount of fabrication on the x-pipe to make it all work.
That pipe is just a assembley holder. I'm going to order up pipes to replace it after I get all my angles figured out to make left & right pipes. If I don't hack it up or just hack it up enough that whats left is usable It will be sold off. I'm not really a fan of X-pipes anyways.
Between huffing paint stripper working on a ghetto dresser the wife wants to redo kept going to the garage to see the hell I'll be getting into the passenger down pipe. I don't the Pypes '64-'77 down pipe is going to work due to the near 45 deg angle on the manifold flange. From looking at the Walker site & Y-pipes I'm watching I'm watching on Fleabay the passenger side pipe looks like it possibly going 60 deg(?) to meet with the driver side as it bent to run under it. And it looks like the pipe may have to be 2.25" then flaired to 2.5". I may get a steel 2.5" section made to mock up the ability to use it & have the clearance for the brass nuts. Or if possible get some ARP bolts instead of studs/brass nuts to clear & have enough of a head flange to bite the flange. My theory I hope to run is get a 45 deg pipe flaired to fit either the manifold & gasket or heat riser delete w/cast in gasket, then to join a 90 deg (or 85) bend to then connect to the cat. I have the space to push the car back & still be under the heat shield to allow adjustment to those bends. Now the one thing that has my attention on this plan is not having a firewall to what clearance I have the 45 & how long of a straight section between the manifold flange & bend. I hope Jared (Texas82GP) might comment here on that since I believe his GP had the earlier manifolds when he got it. I know correct manifolds or headers may of been easier at this point but I like the ease of access for the plugs on the passenger side with an A/C box, didn't want to hammer & adapt the drivers side dipstick tube to work between the correct manifold & head, didn't want to fight with headers when they rot out. Who knows, maybe the Chinese stainless short headers might of been better than anything else (until they leak.) Atleast I created this myself, there is pipes out there to make it work, I'll even be able to say I engineered it myself. If I get fustrated I know I can work on the X-pipe replacement.
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