AC Step-By-Step or Where to Start?
- Thread starter Gonzo1970
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Been looking... I see some with oil, some with leak stop, some with leak detect, some with one and not the others, some with two...
I would assume Both Oil and Leak Stop? (obviously along with the low side 12>134 adapter)
-Gonz
I suggest avoiding using the sealant. I also suggest against charging the system without a gauge set. Has it been retro-fitted to R-134A or is it still an R-12 system? If you repair the cut green wire that you spliced back together and plug in the low pressure switch, will the compressor run? Did you happen to feel the line connecting the evaporator to the accumulator while you had the compressor running? Did that line get cold at all? When you say a little came out when you pushed the Schrader valve in, do you mean a little came out and then no more, in other words, it's empty now?
Still R12 - have the adapter and a can of refrigerant waiting for me at the local parts joint on the way home.. Can has a gauge.
Compressor doesn't run unless the low side is shorted.
Very little pressure in system (I just tapped the valve, I was just checking for pressure.. I didn't hold it in). There was a little pressure there.. basically, it seemed like just air escaping with maybe a couple pounds behind it.
Its not Completely empty, but Id say if I held it in and let everything escape, I couldn't imagine that taking more than a few seconds.. so for all intents and purposes, we could probably just call it empty.
My only concern at this point is filling it with $35 worth of sh*t and it all leaking out 😀
-Gonz
Compressor doesn't run unless the low side is shorted.
Very little pressure in system (I just tapped the valve, I was just checking for pressure.. I didn't hold it in). There was a little pressure there.. basically, it seemed like just air escaping with maybe a couple pounds behind it.
Its not Completely empty, but Id say if I held it in and let everything escape, I couldn't imagine that taking more than a few seconds.. so for all intents and purposes, we could probably just call it empty.
My only concern at this point is filling it with $35 worth of sh*t and it all leaking out 😀
-Gonz
Depending on how long it has been inoperable I would change the dryer and orface tube. As for leaks I would check the system to look for any obvious ones like a oil patch on the condenser. I would not use any sealer cause if it not the condenser it is probably a dried up o ring or the compressor is leaking. Also do not even consider trying to fill the system, you will need to stick it on a vacuum for a few hours to get everything out of the system and to create a void for the ac fluid to fill. that is the best way to get the coolest air out of the system
If it had any pressure at all then it was not empty. Therefore no moisture would have sneaked in. It may have a leak that stops leaking at 15psi or so. You can just add some R-12 or equivilant and see if the compressor stays on. It takes very little to get that to happen so don't overdo it. If it does stay on then add more a little at a time to try and get around 30psi low side pressure while running. If it leaks out again then your fun has just begun.
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From a former tech, take it to someone with a set of gauges and some know how. Should be a minimal fee. Then you kind of know what is going on and then report back. I hate seeing someone go down a rabbit hole on a usually easy item to diagnose with a little knowledge
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