battery disconnect with key?

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well guess what? camlock is the company that makes the lock thing in the pictures above, AND there located in glenview il! 5 minutes from my house. so tommarrow before work ill gothere and see what i can get, and if anyone else wants some ill see what i can do fer ya. YAY! :banana:
 
no, those are nice, but i rather have something that i can use and have secure without having to open my hood everytime to use it. and you have to admit, it looks damn cool. 8)
 
beermonkey9417 said:
the problem is finding one that can handle the amps our cars put out without melting or heating up. i mostly want it because i rather throw money at a battery disconnect switch than actually find the drainage problem causing my batter to die. :lol:

Run the switch to a relay that can handle the amps. :mrgreen:
 
beermonkey9417 said:
the problem is finding one that can handle the amps our cars put out without melting or heating up. i mostly want it because i rather throw money at a battery disconnect switch than actually find the drainage problem causing my batter to die. :lol:
 
well i went to the main office by my house and they said theres no switches they have for automotive use. i also asked about the covers and they said to order it's an automatic $30 fee, even tho they will sell single parts. :wtf: so onward and upward with my search for the coolest battery disconnect. :|
 
RegalBegal said:
Run the switch to a relay that can handle the amps. :mrgreen:

This sounds the most feasible. Wire a relay triggered by the key lock (doesn't look like they can carry a lot of current), and trigger something like one of these:
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webc ... ield=30206

You could use one of these too, but they have to be disengaged or they will drain the battery.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webc ... ield=30205
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webc ... ield=30204

May even be able to use this, but I'm not sure if it's rated for continuous use.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/webc ... ield=40112

Daily duty with a factory type radio (no external amps, etc.) and not a lot of fancy electronics/lights/etc., I don't think a late '70s/early '80s car would pull much more than 20-30 amps continuous at the most. Add running lights & everything at night it probably goes up another 20-25 amps. (dash illumination + headlights + running lights). If that single solenoid is rated for a decent continuous load it'd probably be your cheapest bet.
 
i wanna figure out a way to have this
Yamaha-Rhino-Side-X-Side-UTV-Electrical-Master-Battery-Disconnect-w--Key.jpg
work with this
SM-MainsCurr.jpg
and still function. thats the goal.
 
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