There is so many LS cam grinders out there its easy to get lost. Ive been doing a lot of research for my 6.0 build and basically narrowed it down to an EPS, CamMotion, or Brian Tooley Racing cam. A lot of the comp ones have records of being "whiney" and use lobes that can be rough on springs.
Custom grinds are really popular too and really no more expensive. Your combo is really simple enough that any off the shelf single plane or carb manifold cam is going to be good enough. Any decent, well known shop cam is going to be within a few HP of each other.
Im kinda like n the details of the cam motion cam you mentioned. Eps sounds cool to but gonna be honest with you guys this is gonna be first time ever doing a cam swap and actually my first time mess n with a ls too. I noticed on eps cam it metioned piston to valve clearance I honestly wouldnt even know where or how to do that. Ive also read somewhere about fly cutting or something like that i dont know what that means either. Hope someone could shed a lil light on all this
Im kinda like n the details of the cam motion cam you mentioned. Eps sounds cool to but gonna be honest with you guys this is gonna be first time ever doing a cam swap and actually my first time mess n with a ls too. I noticed on eps cam it metioned piston to valve clearance I honestly wouldnt even know where or how to do that. Ive also read somewhere about fly cutting or something like that i dont know what that means either. Hope someone could shed a lil light on all this
Flycutting is cutting into the piston to make a relief for valve clearance. Most aftermarket pistons have those recesses cast or forged into them. My stock pistons have them on the exhaust side. I've read that flycutting makes the ring lands weak in boosted and nitrous applications but a n/a setup should be fine. One of the cam experts at CamMotion or Tick would know pretty well what you would need to have good piston to valve clearance. They are really thorough. They ask every detail, entire engine combination, transmission, stall speed, gearing, tire size, etc.
I do have longtube headers and i have flows but not sure if i gonna do turn downs or all the way to the rear. As far as valve lift limitations thats kind the thing i dont really know much of so any advise and help is much appreciated i do plan on change n valve springs to match cam not sure what else exactly is needed
It comes down to a what fits and what hits factor. You have to make sure that the cams valve lift does not cause
internal contact with pistons. Also valve springs can go into Coil Bind when too much lift is present.
There are plenty of tried and true combinations that work. So stick with that plan.
Just stay away from too wild....
What are you doing for heads? If you go with real aggressive cam, you will need to upgrade the valvesprings. I called up Texas Speed and they gave me a couple different recommendations.
What are you doing for heads? If you go with real aggressive cam, you will need to upgrade the valvesprings. I called up Texas Speed and they gave me a couple different recommendations.
GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.