Thanks. They are fresh 215s with hardened exhaust seats and the 2.19/1.88 deal. Im gonna feel guilty putting these on a ring and bearinged shortblock. Im thinking well maybe I should build a shortblock...but then that leads to having our transmission guy build me a transmission with a brake....then off to the chassis shop....thats how race cars happen lol...has happened to me before when we were doing mopars.
This plan for this car is dead reliable mid to low 12s without breakage hence the 9in, the bigblock and th400......we will see how it develops though...still need a few things before I take the car apart for the bigblock.
Pretty much, I need to get a camshaft and a shifter too.My car is a colum shift. Ill pick up a pro stick or something for it when I get closer. That intake came with the heads. The machinist at the swap meet I bought the heads from (a friend of mine) said "here take this with you" I wasnt gonna say no. Im gonna try and get the rearend in it this weekend but I have to fix the rearend in my girlfriends f150 too. Monday thrugh friday its pretty much work and sleep. Thanks for all the information, puts me way ahead on the learning curve on these gbodies.Nah, rings and bearings and be done. If you are going in that far, I advise a Milodon oil pump, Melling cut meat out of the pump mounting casting, I have had two fail, and fall into the oil pan. Plus they are like $45, cheap insurance. I have had the best luck with Clevite bearings, and Hastings rings, I would go with cast, set the gap a little wider than normal so you can safely add a 125 shot of nitrous. Don't forget to use a ZDDP additive in your oil or get some oil with it like Valvoline VR1 Racing or Brad Penn etc.
I love the old school Tarantula intake, but, that 454 will make a lot more torque with a dual plane intake.
G-body cars were born missing the lower half of most of the body bushings, buy some. I have had awesome results with solid lower rear control arms. Grab some MOOG 5610 front end springs for the big block. Leave rubber mounts on the trans and motor...G-body twist or shuffle will kill/break the transmission case at the bell housing. Get some of the braces that tie the front of the rear control arms together. Site sponsor BMR offers some:
http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=1598&superpro=0
About all that is left is a converter, shift kit, and a yoke to fit the TH400.
These help quite a bit too:
http://bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&vehicleid=15&maincatid=47&catid=106
Grab some cheap 3-way drag shocks and go to the track!
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