Brand new manual trans question

[Mighty]

I’ve been slowly getting my wagon back together. I was going to rebuild a 1975 super t10 but I came across a brand new Richmond super t10 plus and purchased it instead. I bought the shifter that member gnvair on here made so I could use the original hole in the floor and keep my bench seat. I’ve mentioned before that this is my first go around with a manual trans project. This brand new out the the box transmission is just so hard to shift. I’ve already had to take the side cover off and pop one synchronizer loose……twice. I just set the body onto the frame tonight and was sitting inside of it and it’s still awfully tough to shift but it’ll go. It’s full of fluid. 1st, 2nd, and reverse feel pretty ok. 3rd and 4th are pretty rough but it’ll go. I’ve seen videos and read a lot (especially about Richmond super t10’s) having stuck synchros fresh out of the box. Does all of this stuff just need broken in or is my brand new transmission garbage?

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

So you're trying to shift this thing.... with the car not even running and driving?

 

[Mighty]

When I had it on the bench making sure I didn’t have to adjust the shift levers and stops is when I first noticed it, yes.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

Put it in the car, get it running then try it. Let the fluid be moved around before thinking something is wrong.

Waaaay overthinking this here. If you didn't grasp from my screen name here I may know a few things about manual transmissions.....

 

[buick7332]

I’ve been slowly getting my wagon back together. I was going to rebuild a 1975 super t10 but I came across a brand new Richmond super t10 plus and purchased it instead. I bought the shifter that member gnvair on here made so I could use the original hole in the floor and keep my bench seat. I’ve mentioned before that this is my first go around with a manual trans project. This brand new out the the box transmission is just so hard to shift. I’ve already had to take the side cover off and pop one synchronizer loose……twice. I just set the body onto the frame tonight and was sitting inside of it and it’s still awfully tough to shift but it’ll go. It’s full of fluid. 1st, 2nd, and reverse feel pretty ok. 3rd and 4th are pretty rough but it’ll go. I’ve seen videos and read a lot (especially about Richmond super t10’s) having stuck synchros fresh out of the box. Does all of this stuff just need broken in or is my brand new transmission garbage?

Make sure you have a Gbody clutch fork.

 

[Mighty]

Ok thanks. I’ll go crawl back under my rock now….

 

[spongbob]

I’ve been slowly getting my wagon back together. I was going to rebuild a 1975 super t10 but I came across a brand new Richmond super t10 plus and purchased it instead. I bought the shifter that member gnvair on here made so I could use the original hole in the floor and keep my bench seat. I’ve mentioned before that this is my first go around with a manual trans project. This brand new out the the box transmission is just so hard to shift. I’ve already had to take the side cover off and pop one synchronizer loose……twice. I just set the body onto the frame tonight and was sitting inside of it and it’s still awfully tough to shift but it’ll go. It’s full of fluid. 1st, 2nd, and reverse feel pretty ok. 3rd and 4th are pretty rough but it’ll go. I’ve seen videos and read a lot (especially about Richmond super t10’s) having stuck synchros fresh out of the box. Does all of this stuff just need broken in or is my brand new transmission garbage?

First off the probability is high that you need to wear the fuzz off your new clutch ? I have had an instance of a new clutch being too tight (thick) . My solution was to ease to a nearby hill and fry the clutch until I could smell clutch burning let it cool a minet and keep that up for say 5 minets or longer .I mean fry the clutch let it slip and give it gas say 3000 rpm on and off with the clutch .this will size the clutch down some .Point in mind there is fuzz and high points on your clutch that need leveled off untill you address this it just might drag gears ? I don't know what's going on in your case ....or ther case but when someone says new clutch and dragging I know a story ...now you know to...thanks

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

First off the probability is high that you need to wear the fuzz off your new clutch ? I have had an instance of a new clutch being too tight (thick) . My solution was to ease to a nearby hill and fry the clutch until I could smell clutch burning let it cool a minet and keep that up for say 5 minets or longer .I mean fry the clutch let it slip and give it gas say 3000 rpm on and off with the clutch .this will size the clutch down some .Point in mind there is fuzz and high points on your clutch that need leveled off untill you address this it just might drag gears ? I don't know what's going on in your case ....or ther case but when someone says new clutch and dragging I know a story ...now you know to...thanks

If you read above the guy doesn't even have the car running, Transmission internals not even moving.

Might get the dogs on one gate to line up on the synchro rings without it all moving but it won't do that for all.

 

[Mighty]

Right it’s not running. I first noticed it on the bench when I was looking over the shift levers and positive stops to make sure they were adjusted. Sounds like I shouldn’t have worried about it though and just ran it.

 

[Supercharged111]

I've had new synchro rings be sticky on the bench and kinda bind the trans into 2 gears. I've found this while grabbing all 7 gears on the bench before it goes into the car. Requires me to spin the input while immobilizing the output. Stick it in the car and drive it, it's probably fine.