Buick 350

Nov 4, 2012
6,085
13,048
113
At a minimum, you're up to a cam and lifters at this point. Coming from someone who has built a Buick 350 in the recent past, what is your goal with this engine and how much of a perfectionist are you?
 
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Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
How deep is the ridge? The very top of the cylinder bore above the top ring where it doesn't get worn.

It looks like it has a fair amount of miles on it but it does appear it was taken care of.

To remove the lifters you need a tool like this.
It’s not too bad I don’t think. I can feel it but it doesn’t catch a nail.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
It looks like someone has been in here already.
5F243C67-190F-4654-B3D1-EF7749E424C8.jpeg
D7F9C328-D8EE-45EE-987B-A17C35805620.jpeg
8A5C928E-2E17-422C-9536-1D3C741566E8.jpeg
 

ELCAM

Royal Smart Person
Jun 19, 2021
1,144
1,314
113
Looks like a V6 rod was used to replace one of the 350 rods. Likely the crankshaft has been ground, question is how much.

That brown/orange sludge looks like it might have had coolant in the oil pan at one time and was never cleaned out completely.

The remains of the head gasket on the deck surface is not from factory head gaskets.

More pics.
 

Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
Looks like a V6 rod was used to replace one of the 350 rods. Likely the crankshaft has been ground, question is how much.

That brown/orange sludge looks like it might have had coolant in the oil pan at one time and was never cleaned out completely.

The remains of the head gasket on the deck surface is not from factory head gaskets.

More pics.
Yeah i couldn’t see what I was taking a picture of. The sun was in bad spot. I will get some in the morning.
 

MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,867
6,836
113
Des Moines, Iowa
Around 75 Buick went to cap screw rods instead of the stud and nut combo. Whatever type rods you have more of, go with those and stalk ebay for em. I'm not quite sure, but the torque spec for the stud and nut and Cap Screw rods may be different. Plus that would irritate the sh*t out of me. The Capscrew rods are noticably heavier a d stronger than the stud and nut rods so I'd get the bottom end balanced.

See how quickly it snowballs?

Meanwhile, TA just released this gem:

Screenshot_20230418-102514.png
 
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MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,867
6,836
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Des Moines, Iowa
Also take the cam out and smack the lifters downwards. They're trash so don't bother with them. Pulling them out when they're that worn can damage the lifter bore.
 
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Street Sweeper22

Greasemonkey
Nov 18, 2017
233
91
28
It looks like the rod cap was ground down. I need to get a scale weigh them. The one I got only does ounces lol. I only used mineral spirits and brake cleaner and it washed some of the silver off. Is that normal?
 

MrSony

Geezer
Nov 15, 2014
6,867
6,836
113
Des Moines, Iowa
Yeah, those are indeed the two styles of rods. The capscrew rods are quite heavier and beefier than the earlier stud and nut rods. you can weigh them all. They have been numbered, so someone definitely cobbled that engine together at some point. The capscrew rods are the better rods, but unless it annoys you, just get everything weighed out and balanced. if it balances fine, leave it i suppose. It ran before, correct?
 

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