Buick 350

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Thank you for your input. I will be stoked AF to get 40,000 miles out of it. Im going to keep at it and post some more pics as I go.
Any question no matter how small, ask away.
This video way back when I was 15 inspired me to build my 350 buicks instead of a sbc.
 
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I know it’s been a couple of month. I decided to take that 350 block to the machine shop because a couple of cylinders were beyond what I could repair with my little cylinder hone. I get a call from the dude saying the block is no good. I’m pretty bummed out. So I’m just going to slap some head gaskets on my V6 until I can regroup and find a different V8 to go in there. I got my Buick out of a salvage yard so I don’t know much about it. The casting numbers on the block are 25506397 and on the heads 25505900. I don’t think it came in the car. One place says it’s an 81. Any ideas?
 
Sorry to hear that. Is it really that deep of gouges?
 
whats no good about it?
or are they one of those "we only do chevies here *buuurrrp*" kind of guys?
 
I would almost take it somewhere else, someone correct me here but i think you can go up to .040 over, maybe .060. Which is a lot of material, not trying hyjack but i rebuilt my buick 350 in 2011. Till now it took 3 machine shops to get my heads right. No joke, i drive my car 1100-1500 miles a year. 5000 miles ago i paid someone $700 to turn down the guides for a high lift cam, check the heads, valve job, resurface them. Last fall started puffing blue smoke. I took the heads to a shop we took our combine head to. They put new valve guides in and all the same work except surface them for less. Car runs nicer and they said the guides were original and they were shot.
I guess im saying not all shops are equal. Josh
 
First off, unless there is a huge crack or something, anything can be fixed. Block can be bored out to the maximum SAFE spec, and oversize pistons, or can be sleeved back to stock specs. Valve guides can be bored to fit oversize valve stems, or bronze inserts can be fitted and honed to stock valve stem specs. The problem is finding a shop that can be trusted to do that kind of work. The corner garage is NOT up to that task. My guy does racing engines, marine engines, truck engines, anything that is internal combustion he can and will work on. I know finding a guy like that can be tough but it is the only way to go.
 
the machine shop said it looked like it had been sitting in water for 3 years. It wasn’t the cylinder walls. Something about the lifters, the webbing and something else. I’m sorry I’m drawing a blank. I will call around and get a second opinion. In the meantime I’m going to get my V6 running. I need my car. I got the engine and transmission out. I got the transmission out all by myself. Not bad for a dude paralyzed from the belly button down. I needed help with the motor though. I couldn’t reach the top two bell housing bolts. Whoever worked on this car before I got it half assed it. 3 bolts in the bell housing, 2 bolts in the torque converter and 1 bolt in the starter. It’s a dirty pig so I’m tearing it down and cleaning it now.
 
I bet their machines are setup for Chevy and they're too lazy to change em. Aside from having a hole or being cracked in half there is no reason they can't work on it.
 
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