Build Thread-85 Cutlass Brougham-New Pics Added!

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Sep 1, 2006
6,687
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Tampa Bay Area
For anyone who is interested, here is a list of what I have ready to go in the car once it is buffed and assembled.

I have in stock:

Camaro Aluminum plastic radiator
Monte SS fast steering box
975 watt stereo with Alpine amps and CD player and 2 Cobalt or Alpine 10's
new steering shaft
Global West upper arms for negative roll geometry
A/C conversion parts for 134a including O rings, hoses, dryer and cycling switch
Soff Seal weatherstripping
NOS Oldsmobile script for front bumper
1988 Power seat track (the good one with 3 motors)
Rally gauge cluster
dark blue brougham interior with unfaded plastics
New ACC carpet kit
2 series posi (need spacer)
Cruise Control from a 1986 LG4 Monte Carlo



I still need the following to make it drivable:

tires without dry rot

spindles from a B body , rotors from a 1LE Camaro, calipers from a B body, idler arm from an S-10 and pitman arm from an S-10 (hoping it cures the bump steer issue). All to complete the tall spindle and bigger brake upgrade package.

Plug wires

Carb rebuild kit for the Quadrajet

headliner

wiper switch

1 drip rail molding



I would also like to get:

Power wire from amps to battery

sound deadener

jounce bar connecting front frame rails

stainless tailpipes

window tint kit

power steering cooler

clutch kit

flywheel for a L69 Camaro

Clutch hydraulics from a 4th gen F body

Global West rear LCA's with spherical bearings

bucket seats and console

brake light switch from a cruise control equipped car

custom driveshaft

ring gear spacer (or just the bolts as I have a spacer but am missing 2 bolts)

Baffled oil pan with crank scraper and windage tray

power lock switches

trunk weatherstripping (have one, but it is not perfect)

new fan clutch


If I got all of those things done, the car would be 100% functional and not require any more work. Then, I could concentrate on doing improvements.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
No new pics today. I finished wet sanding the car in 1,000 grit today as I only had a small section left to do. Tomorrow will be 2,000 grit day, but I wanted to give it a day in the hot sun to cure and shrink a bit more before I did the final sanding. You can smell the paint fumes as you sand past the surface layer! I did manage to get all the heavy orange peel knocked down to a manageable level though, so the 2,000 grit should not be too bad. I may do a final sanding in something even finer on Thursday before I buff it. I should have it buffed and glazed by sun down on Thursday evening as it is my day off. After that, I will be putting the windows and weatherstripping in, followed by disassembly of the front clip and painting the sheet metal under the hood satin black. Then I will reassemble it with the lighter radiator I have from a Camaro, replace the steering box and shaft, put in the NOS radiator overflow and washer bottle, and start getting the A/C and Cruise control hooked up. I also have all of the bolts cleaned and painted to assemble the fenders to the front end, as well as the bolts that hold the front clip the shell.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
Well, I couldn't stop, so I did a bunch of the 2,000 grit as well. I did the driver's side quarter and door, both front fenders, the hood, half of a bumper cover and the header panel. Tomorrow I need to do the roof, trunk lid, passenger's quarter and door, and the bumper covers to be ready for buffing on Thursday. The roof and trunk are the hard ones because of how the sun is in my driveway. I may set the shelter back up tonight when I get home from work so that I have some shade to sand in. The color is so dark that it gets really hot and the water evaporates too quickly otherwise. I also found a baffling finish flaw: white dots like overspray that appear during wet sanding. I have no idea what they are from, but I am thinking somehow the sealer is doing it. If so, they will never come out and I would have to repaint to fix it. I think I'll just live with it. It's not obvious unless you look close, and it's not a show car. It just sucks because they will be the only real flaw when it is done.
 

Blake442

Geezer
Apr 24, 2007
6,868
2,030
113
Minneapolis
I've got some power lock switches you can have if you pay for the ride. Should only be a few bucks. I don't need them, and I threw away the door panels, but kept the switches. I know you're short on funds, so I'll keep them warm for you... :lol:

Which driprail molding do you need? I've got a few assorted ones laying around...
 

v8power

G-Body Guru
Aug 24, 2007
563
7
0
green bay WI
i have drip rail molding here to, all the trim that came on the regal/cutlass doors i have...like 4 sets.
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
I forget which one I need, but one of them has a dent in it and it's easier to just get another one. I will have to look at the ones I have. I might need both of them. It's the one at the top of the window, where the drip rail is on the roof. I'll take the lock switches, just let me know what the shipping is to 34655. I can Paypal the money to you. Thanks!


(BTW, I am eating some of the ramen right now for dinner...:lol:)
 
Sep 1, 2006
6,687
34
0
Tampa Bay Area
All but the bottom of one door is 2,000 grit sanded. Now all I have to do is find a tool rental place so I can get a buffer. It seems the two I used to use are out of business. :cry:

l_56d808bc226945deb55da3d097be6d6b.jpg


Here are two of my T-5's. The one standing on end is a V8 one, the other is from a 2.8 V6 Camaro. The automatic is an AMC pattern Torqueflite 904. Just out of the picture is an AMC Torqueflite 727. Yes, this is my front porch...

l_7d4a5e1673fd42af88d0004562ff1ede.jpg
 
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