Build Thread: '87 442 . . . Time to turn and stop

[Canon_Mutant]

I was reading somewhere that 30 spline axles side by side with 28s make the 28s look like "toothpicks". So, I gleaned from that they were larger diameter perhaps requiring 3" tubes instead of the 2.75s or something? Again, learning from scratch here . . .

Thanks for the educational material . . .

 

[Canon_Mutant]

. . . have someone with experience load everything into the 8.5" correctly, and done.

DISCLAIMER: The following is sarcasm, not being defensive, OK?

WHAT? Hey, I will have you know that I WILL do this myself and it WILL get done right. I just have to learn WTF I am doing first, and, my proficiency lately getting things done isn't quite what it was when younger but . . . details!

Went through the same thing re-building motors and completely changing the suspension on my old Tacoma [those factory TRD suspensions on Gen 1s are literally dangerous]. When I started, I didn't know a lifter from a rocker arm or a tie rod from a control arm. But, I do now . . . I'm almost positive

Here is the post that made me assume Moser 30s were hardened and huge and then I find out there may have been erectile dysfunction involved?

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/ring-and-pinion-questions.62601/page-2#post-541236

 

[Injectedcutty]

DISCLAIMER: The following is sarcasm, not being defensive, OK?

WHAT? Hey, I will have you know that I WILL do this myself and it WILL get done right. I just have to learn WTF I am doing first, and, my proficiency lately getting things done isn't quite what it was when younger but . . . details!

Went through the same thing re-building motors and completely changing the suspension on my old Tacoma [those factory TRD suspensions on Gen 1s are literally dangerous]. When I started, I didn't know a lifter from a rocker arm or a tie rod from a control arm. But, I do now . . . I'm almost positive

Here is the post that made me assume Moser 30s were hardened and huge and then I find out there may have been erectile dysfunction involved?

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/ring-and-pinion-questions.62601/page-2#post-541236

No worries buddy. As all of us know, anything can be done given some time, knowledge, and a little patience. It's always rewarding to learn something new on our cars and not have to shop it out. I've never rebuilt a rearend, but it's one of the things I'd like to know how to do.

From my understanding, the main thing is to take time, write down everything in regards to shim measurements, backlash, etc. before bolting on the cover and filling with fluid.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Oh, hey, and HD pics are indispensable too . . .

 

[Ve8r]

Well, I actually had time this evening so, since I need to get this done in order to start the suspension mods, I finally got the old . . . View attachment 52739
ratso-frackin motsa-blackin electric antenna out, hooked up the new one and . . . DOA. So, the factory antenna just ran continuously with just the battery hooked up, no ignition or radio ON required. The replacement does nothing even with proper voltages applied. Glad I checked it BEFORE I buttoned the fender back up.

For those that don't know, the factory antenna is spot welded to its mounting bracket on the back side AND [on mine anyway] the bracket was attached "from the engine compartment side" down below the heat exchanger where there is no way you can get anything on it. So, I had to break the bracket [the replacement antenna mounts different anyway]. Why is the fender only loose instead of OFF? To take it OFF requires hood removal and several more things up front [practically have to remove the entire front end] so this is just loose enough to gain access. Had the mounting bolt been applied from the outside . . . 10 minute job once you get the fender loose . . . IF THE REPLACEMENT PART IS FUNCTIONAL! So, now I get to wait for a replacement for the replacement . . .

Here are a couple of pics of the dirty deed.

Old before removal:

View attachment 52737

And after removal:

View attachment 52738

Yeah I remember when the original power antenna went out on mine, it's a real pain in the you know what to replace it. Luckily I had a buddy of mine that owned a body shop that let me know you have to take the fender off. If he wouldn't have told me that I would have still been trying to figure it out.
I ended up buying the OEM components to put the base model regular antenna back on it. I wasn't going to fool with that again.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

I don't know if the mount bolt is in the exact same spot on all of them but, even with the fender out of the way, the mount bolt comes through from the engine side on mine and in a place where you cannot get a wrench on it without also removing the fender well too which would be an additional enormous job. I tried to back it out with a pair of vice grips on the thread side but it was too tight.

Short of drilling a new blind hole to mount the new antenna to, I had to cut the bracket from the factory antenna, bend it slightly, then just attach the new antenna bracket to it. If there was an access panel from the fender well or if they just put the bolt in from the fender side, you would still have to take the fender loose, but at least you could get the GD bolt out. I may well regret not just going to a fixed antenna on mine too but after all the work and frustration I was bound and determined to have a working electric one again . . . if it killed me! And, now that I've done it once . . . if there is a next time, at least all the head scratching and profanity time won't be wasted next time.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Yup, that would explain why with the 26.7" 245/60/15s I am running now, my 60-70 cruise range is 1800-2200 with my 3.73. Since I've quoted that in other posts . . . sure am glad I wasn't lying. 🙂

You know, the whole go to 3.42 thing came from that is what UMI is running now in their Monte. Seriously, almost tempted to go up to 3.23 now. Plus my other objective to try and stay in first running [at least most] auto-x runs also would favor 3.23.

3.23 would make 60-75 cruise range 1635-2044. With all the torque my big block makes early on, it would happily do that all day and might well get me above 20mpg in closed loop lean burn mode too.

Since we set it up to go into OD at 45 and lockup at 52, that could cause some problems though? That's down at 1200. But that's easy to control with the shifter . . .

Hmmh . . .

Using 3.23 gears with the taller tire was around the same as my 88 CSC with 2.56 gears and short 245/60R14 tires, 1600 to 1900 rpm. What are your 455 specs? My 8 to 1 Olds 403 with 204/214 cam didn't like that low of rpm under load, pulling my boat. I did manage 20 imperial mpg in -20 to -30 in the winter on the highway, probably could have hit mid 20's in the summer. With 3.42's in the summer, I put probably could hit 20 mpg. But it was just too fun and night and day more fun, couldn't keep my foot out of it. The first day after I installed the 3.42's, I thought there may be an issue, I could smell something. You what it was? The tires were spinning so much harder, it was burnt rubber🙂. When doing rear gears, pinion depth is critical, measure where your current one is. I used a tape measure and a block of wood against the carrier. I used the solid pinion spacer and shims to get it right, more strength and no worry about it not crushing. The new Ratech smart sleeve is an option. You need a holding tool with a crush sleeve, the smart sleeve is supposed to compress much lower than a conventional style, it still seems to range from 100 to 270 ft/lbs according to the reviews on Summit, still alot better than the conventional crush sleeve.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Depending on how your 403 is set up, you may actually have more HP than I do as I'm running my [granted pretty modified] VIN 9 CCC off the [granted pretty modified] ECM and WZ manifolds instead of headers limits my HP to about 400 but I've got over 500lb.ft. and I've got it very early on. This car will run 1600-1900 happily all day long . . . of that I am sure. Now, going 3.23 will cause problems with my OD and lockup points because that gets you down in the 1200 range so [if I go 3.23] it will pretty much mandate {D} to {3} with a manual up shift when the Rs get up to at least 1500 which isn't a huge deal.

So, since I know I am not intending to [seriously] dominate the GTV class [ha] and this is just for fun, perhaps I should consider drivability and just go to 3.42s but . . I'm still thinking and waiting on Mike at QuickPerformance to get back to me with pricing.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Hey, they finally showed up. I can put my sound system in and interior back together at least . . .

Yeah, I know, I need to shoot some pics of the process . . . I'll try to remember to do that.

I just realized today that my [2] Sound Ordnance amps . . . are not the same model, nor the same power or size.

Turns out the smaller and slightly higher power one is the replacement for the other so they just sent one of each.

So, since I cannot return the discontinued one, looks like I will have a "new in box Sound Ordnance 75Wx2" amp for sale shortly.

The newer one that is smaller is 100Wx2. They cut me a quite good deal on just buying a second one so they match and are over nighting it on their dime.

And, yes, there is actually a logical reason to have [2] 2 channel amps instead of [1] 4 channel but it's a long story . . .

 

[olds307 and 403]

Your 455 has more power, mine is in pieces, will be at 10 to 1 and 424ci. You will like 3.42 gears, I am thinking 3.42 instead 3.90's as cruising is number one in my 70S.