Build Thread: '87 442 . . . Time to turn and stop
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http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=55_84_89&products_id=791
You choose your color. The carpeting is not attached, just laying on there for the pic. And it doesn't look like the panels attach exactly as the factory ones so we will see how great they are after I get them installed? Initial impressions are that the way that speaker mount cone is molded on the door panel, it adds quite a bit of structural integrity to hopefully "solidly" mount the speaker but again we will see if rattling problems persist after the installation? I am sure I can fab some metal reinforcement if they do but naturally would prefer to not do that.
Since my entire interior is gutted at the moment adding Dynamat, battery relocation, and installing the Sub, Amps, and 6x9s in back along with the new head unit, all the wiring, this may take a couple of weeks . . .
or years it seems!
I am guessing the aluminum heads help but having a timing curve you can tweak electronically helps enormously. Once we got the timing curve right, pinging was not a problem. Now, it runs better on 93 but runs fine on 91. [My E-friend from Toronto that helped me tweak the code] Kevin's 9.5:1 455 with iron heads and a really mild cam like .456 lift ~ 215D as I recall that he put in his Caddy running the base code that was the starting point for mine will run on 87 . . . one of his requirements. I did have to go down from a 230/236 [Engle] Mondello JM-22-25-10 [110LS] to the Engle 2720H but it's still a 226/230 and .496/.512 lift. But that cam still has a nice rumble and more important to me is just snappy quick and pulls really strong until my carb and restrictive exhaust begin to become problematic.
Yeah, I am more than certain that a few folks here would like to not only see my motor but perhaps hear it run??? Me too . . .
Had it scattered so long, I've almost forgotten . . .
I am pretty sure I am running a US Radiator 4 core and the aluminum water pump is from FlowKooler.
My Sabers are now 7 days away . . .
.Better start looking for tires . . . ca-ching. Was all set on Bridgestone RE-11s but they are now being discontinued and the 11Rs aren't in distribution yet. Someone in marketing f'd that up. Looking at these new Continental Extreme DW Sports that just came out and their nice $70 rebate. Less than $600 delivered for the 245/45/17 and 275/40/18 set. Not bad . . .
Tire p*rn:
More Saber p*rn:
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Nice tires and rims. It is tough to find 28.6 tall in 18" to fit my Challenger, I need a programmer for it, to calibrate the speedo and tweak the 3.5. I went 245/55R18 Nitto Motivo's all four corners. Better than the plain steel rims and P215/75R14's on the 88
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I looked at those US rads, very pricy but nice. Did you get the standard, high effiency or optima core? I will probably go with either a Summit or Champion 2 core or Champion 4 core and only run a big auxiliary cooler for the trans. Macar1993 runs the Champion 4 core with a 10 to 1 403, says the same thing, holds steady at 190. The Griffin 2 core rad, would buy the manual trans version, will out cool most rads with dual 1.25" cores but quality has been hit or miss. I have the Flowkooler pump on my 350, would get one for the stroker.
Are you going to use the 5.25" speakers or (slightly trim) for the 6.5" ? On the 6x9 are you using the adaptors or modifying the package tray ? Keep us updated on the install .http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=55_84_89&products_id=791
You choose your color. The carpeting is not attached, just laying on there for the pic. And it doesn't look like the panels attach exactly as the factory ones so we will see how great they are after I get them installed? Initial impressions are that the way that speaker mount cone is molded on the door panel, it adds quite a bit of structural integrity to hopefully "solidly" mount the speaker but again we will see if rattling problems persist after the installation? I am sure I can fab some metal reinforcement if they do but naturally would prefer to not do that.
Since my entire interior is gutted at the moment adding Dynamat, battery relocation, and installing the Sub, Amps, and 6x9s in back along with the new head unit, all the wiring, this may take a couple of weeks . . .
or years it seems!
Well, I "was" going to use Alpine 5.25s that I have but, after measuring these openings, they are really optimized for a 6.5 and the 5.25s "barely" fit on the speaker lip and the cover doesn't even completely cover the speaker protrusion on the panel.
You know, this is a blessing as I really wanted to do a component setup with a 6.5 woof and a separate 1" tweet in that angled area above it but . . . I got a great deal on the 5.25s and they are great speakers. They cannot compete with a 6.5 component set though.
So, another freakin' delay but I'm off to see if they will take my 5.25s back . . . "if I'm going to spend nearly twice the money on the 6.5" components." I suspect they will. I know Crutchfield would but I got these off Amazon from a third party so we will see?
You know, this is a blessing as I really wanted to do a component setup with a 6.5 woof and a separate 1" tweet in that angled area above it but . . . I got a great deal on the 5.25s and they are great speakers. They cannot compete with a 6.5 component set though.
So, another freakin' delay but I'm off to see if they will take my 5.25s back . . . "if I'm going to spend nearly twice the money on the 6.5" components." I suspect they will. I know Crutchfield would but I got these off Amazon from a third party so we will see?
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Well, step one is good. They are refunding my Alpines. Now, not dis'ing Alpines. I love 'em. Got them in my truck. But, I don't think they are necessarily better than JBLs period but damn sure are not worth the price premium they usually demand. I got them in my Tacoma because Crutchfield had a buy one get one 1/2 price sale and I needed 2 identical 6x8 sets front/rear for it.
These JBL GTO609s require a 5" hole so they will drop right in those new door panels with no cutting required and are 6 7/8" to the outside of the cover which lines up perfectly with the outside of that panel protrusion. Now, I will have to cut the tweeter holes but that's no big deal.
Now, I can go all JBL GTOs . . .
Speaker p*rn:
Baby Bear Speakers for the dash [still can't believe how much sound these dinky speakers put out - easily 2X the factory 3.5s]
Mama Bear Speakers for the doors
Daddy Bear Speakers for the deck
Sweet Dreams . . .
These JBL GTO609s require a 5" hole so they will drop right in those new door panels with no cutting required and are 6 7/8" to the outside of the cover which lines up perfectly with the outside of that panel protrusion. Now, I will have to cut the tweeter holes but that's no big deal.
Now, I can go all JBL GTOs . . .
Speaker p*rn:
Baby Bear Speakers for the dash [still can't believe how much sound these dinky speakers put out - easily 2X the factory 3.5s]
Mama Bear Speakers for the doors
Daddy Bear Speakers for the deck
Sweet Dreams . . .
So, what do you think of this idea? I was already going to build 3 sided boxes on either side of my sub . . .
. . . to neatly attach all the wiring for the battery boxes [yes 2], amps [again 2], plus the powered sub, etc. So picture a carpeted flip down cover on either side of this sub that neatly hides everything. Anyway, since these 4x10 to 6x9 mounting converters are a kluge at best, I thought why not just make it 4 sided and mount my 6x9s directly under the 4x10 holes on the roof of the boxes? After getting these speaker converters, I was ready to just cut 6x9 holes in my rear deck [and I still might] but I got to thinking this might be the next best thing and no deck holes required.
For anyone that cares, I am going to use [2] deep cycle AGMs . . . the same batteries I also use on my solar array here. They are only 24 lbs, are quite a bit physically smaller, but just qty 1 are down a little on CCA. But I get deep cycle and [2X] the Ah for the times I'm running my soon to be 850W sound system for extended periods and even for times my lupus gets me stuck in bed for several months and I get out to find just the trickle bleed from the ECM and electronics and that damn clock have caused yet another dead battery. Over the last 10 years, since dead conventional batteries don't like being dead for extended periods, I bet I've gotten pro-rated waranty replacements 4 times. And, I've taken the battery weight out of the front and will instead have 24 lbs. over each rear tire instead of 40-45 lbs of conventional battery on just one side.
Make sense? Just e-thinking out loud I guess . . .
. . . to neatly attach all the wiring for the battery boxes [yes 2], amps [again 2], plus the powered sub, etc. So picture a carpeted flip down cover on either side of this sub that neatly hides everything. Anyway, since these 4x10 to 6x9 mounting converters are a kluge at best, I thought why not just make it 4 sided and mount my 6x9s directly under the 4x10 holes on the roof of the boxes? After getting these speaker converters, I was ready to just cut 6x9 holes in my rear deck [and I still might] but I got to thinking this might be the next best thing and no deck holes required.
For anyone that cares, I am going to use [2] deep cycle AGMs . . . the same batteries I also use on my solar array here. They are only 24 lbs, are quite a bit physically smaller, but just qty 1 are down a little on CCA. But I get deep cycle and [2X] the Ah for the times I'm running my soon to be 850W sound system for extended periods and even for times my lupus gets me stuck in bed for several months and I get out to find just the trickle bleed from the ECM and electronics and that damn clock have caused yet another dead battery. Over the last 10 years, since dead conventional batteries don't like being dead for extended periods, I bet I've gotten pro-rated waranty replacements 4 times. And, I've taken the battery weight out of the front and will instead have 24 lbs. over each rear tire instead of 40-45 lbs of conventional battery on just one side.
Make sense? Just e-thinking out loud I guess . . .
Sounds like a good idea on your speaker ideas, ive had the same thought on the 6x9 s . I dont know to much about the the dual batterys , but if the cca are good enough , i dont see why it wouldn't work, and the extra weight above each tire would be goodSo, what do you think of this idea? I was already going to build 3 sided boxes on either side of my sub . . .
View attachment 62601
. . . to neatly attach all the wiring for the battery boxes [yes 2], amps [again 2], plus the powered sub, etc. So picture a carpeted flip down cover on either side of this sub that neatly hides everything. Anyway, since these 4x10 to 6x9 mounting converters are a kluge at best, I thought why not just make it 4 sided and mount my 6x9s directly under the 4x10 holes on the roof of the boxes? After getting these speaker converters, I was ready to just cut 6x9 holes in my rear deck [and I still might] but I got to thinking this might be the next best thing and no deck holes required.
For anyone that cares, I am going to use [2] deep cycle AGMs . . . the same batteries I also use on my solar array here. They are only 24 lbs, are quite a bit physically smaller, but just qty 1 are down a little on CCA. But I get deep cycle and [2X] the Ah for the times I'm running my soon to be 850W sound system for extended periods and even for times my lupus gets me stuck in bed for several months and I get out to find just the trickle bleed from the ECM and electronics and that damn clock have caused yet another dead battery. Over the last 10 years, since dead conventional batteries don't like being dead for extended periods, I bet I've gotten pro-rated waranty replacements 4 times. And, I've taken the battery weight out of the front and will instead have 24 lbs. over each rear tire instead of 40-45 lbs of conventional battery on just one side.
Make sense? Just e-thinking out loud I guess . . .
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