CaliWagon83's Consolidated Question/Tech/Update thread

[TURNA]

nope

 

[CaliWagon83]

Just do an LFX with a turbo. Easy.

If I lived anywhere other than Commiefornia, that might be an option. We are severely restricted in terms of engine swaps and modifications for anything after '75. The LF3/LF4 are essentially turbo LFX engines. Still considering my options. Seems like parts to build a 3.8 OHV Grand National engine are fairly plentiful/easy-to-find, so I may stick with that plan.

 

[motorheadmike]

If I lived anywhere other than Commiefornia, that might be an option. We are severely restricted in terms of engine swaps and modifications for anything after '75. The LF3/LF4 are essentially turbo LFX engines. Still considering my options. Seems like parts to build a 3.8 OHV Grand National engine are fairly plentiful/easy-to-find, so I may stick with that plan.

Okay, you do you. But, please consolidate your questions and progress in one, single, solitary thread... you are spamming the main page.

 

[CaliWagon83]

OK. It seems my enthusiasm and curiosity has gotten me in trouble with some in this forum for "spamming" the main page. So from here on out, I'm going to limit my questions and updates to this thread. Feel free to post links to other threads and forums that might answer my questions or point me in the right direction. Apologies for upsetting anyone.

Unfortunately, my '83 Regal wagon is currently out-of-state, and I don't have any photos to post of it yet. As soon as I do, I'll be sure and post them. As of right now, still in the idea gathering stage.

 

[BuickOldsPontiac]

For the 109 block (the one used for 86 & 87 Turbos) the only difference is that on the blocks used for non-turbo applications, the location for the turbo oil drain is not drilled out.

Various internals may be different, the primary difference being the crankshaft. But all the crankshafts used in turbocharged and 4.1 engines have rolled fillets that make them stronger than those used in other 3.8s.

 

[Turbo Zach]

I worn you if you buy piece by piece. It will get expensive fast. I know first hand. You are better off buying a complete engine.

 

[axisg]

Nothing I have seen. Closest I got was in the early 90's. No inner door panel. One piece of wood for up, another for as low as it would go without falling off the track. I had wanted to grab the rear windows off a subie to see how they work as they roll forward instead of just up and down

 

[pagrunt]

An aftermarket street rod type may work. If GM wasn't so worried about making our cars lighter (& cheaper means of assembly) it would of made it nicer for rear passengers to have wind down rears.

 

[UNGN]

If you want a 231 Turbo that passes California emissions, you are better off buying a complete rusty or wrecked turbo car, because you will need EVERYTHING to pass. It would be hard to piece together a motor that passes that regime.

I was so glad when my car turned 25 in Texas and no longer had to make the yearly trek to the emission's dyno, and they didn't even pop the hood and look at the motor in Texas (they put a sensor on the hood to detect RPM). California is a whole nother deal.

 

[Longroof79]

This same question has been asked over and over again. To my recollection it's never been done. Besides, the window can only travel a limited distance on the existing tracks. If you study the shape of the door, you'll see what I mean.
For the little bit of movement of the glass. it's not worth the effort.