Atleast my 8 year old (the Jr. Mechanic) knows what a carb looks like.
Can I remove my ODB1? (not a legal question)
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When I did my V8 swap, I swapped the V6 computer system out for a V8 computer system. The key tool for these systems is a analog dwell meter. You can get Brainmaster OBD1 scanners for cheap and are quite handy.
Most modern mechanics are not trained at all to work on pre OBD2 cars. They are really quite helpless around old iron anymore. If you own a old pre OBD2 car you better know how to work on it because most mechanics won't nor would they even want to learn.
I'm not concerned about choosing a new carb or distributor. I just want the car to run well. Plenty of cars run great long before anything related to OBD was created. I don't see a problem. I do like the turn key option, it should already be turned. Starting to lean in that direction.
Thanks for all the feedback. I'll start planning this and talking to my tech. Should have it installed by early summer.
Thanks for all the feedback. I'll start planning this and talking to my tech. Should have it installed by early summer.
This is how I have mine set up, standard Q-Jet carb and an HEI distributor, and it works just fine as a daily. The choke makes it work well in the winter time too.
CCC system is stand alone and separate from the main harness. If you have the OBD1 port then you likely may have a CCC system. Then again someone may have pulled it over the years the car has existed. Do you have an electrical plug going into the carb ? If so then as stated you can run what you have and have it work really good. Those setups worked really well when all the pieces were in place and I have seen them on some pretty hot motors working just fine.
However if you want it gone then you need an Non CCC Carb and Distributor which can be aquired new from your supplier of choice. "if" your car currently has an overdrive trans you will need to figure out how to engage the lockup function. "if" you install a non- qjet then there are also linkages and brackets and air cleaners to figure out. It is not rocket science but then again you cannot pull one off, install the other and expect to go to the store later that afternoon. It depends on your skill and comfort level to swap it out for something else
However if you want it gone then you need an Non CCC Carb and Distributor which can be aquired new from your supplier of choice. "if" your car currently has an overdrive trans you will need to figure out how to engage the lockup function. "if" you install a non- qjet then there are also linkages and brackets and air cleaners to figure out. It is not rocket science but then again you cannot pull one off, install the other and expect to go to the store later that afternoon. It depends on your skill and comfort level to swap it out for something else
Understood. Thanks for the feedback. Before I make my final decision I'll work with my tech to make my final selection.
Keep in mind your tech will likely want to do what is easist and the most profitable for him which may not be the best for you.
Most aftermarket carbs are generic spec, Jack of all trades master of none. Because of this they tend to lose their tune over time and require frequent retuning. Qjets are calibrated for the engine they are bolted onto and do not require frequent retuning. It is also difficut to get the TV cable geometry correct with aftermarket carbs, even with adaptor brackets. If the geometry is not correct, you can't get a correct adjust and burn up your trans.
As for HEI distributors, most modern ones are not as good as the originals. Many have mechcanical advances made from sub par non hardened parts like the originals had and wear quickly. If you stay with CCC, the advance is all electronic and includes a handy spark knock retard. The ZZ4 chip has a hot advance curve as it was a GM performance part for 350 swapped Camaros. Also mechanical / vacuum advance systrms can only advance timing in a linear pattern which is not the best for performance. So going non CCC will require tuning the advance curve and readjusting it frequently as the parts wear out.
Then there is the transmission lockup. There are aftermarket control kits but none of them controls lockup as well as the CCC. Many people like to falsely believe that deleting the CCC will simplfy things and make the car better. In reality deleting the CCC opens a can of worms rather than closing it.
You know, thinking about your *specific* background and goals I'm about to say something that makes me want to punch myself in the head.
Better yet, someone do it for me to stop it coming out. No takers? Darn it.
Because you don't have much mechanical experience, will be relying on a paid mechanic making shop rate to do your work, and you aren't going to learn as you do the work yourself...
Maybe an *ack* couch cough, ls-swap *GAG* might be a better ticket for you. One they're installed in a stock formulation they just sit there and need little tuning or work. Any shop can work on them as easily as a newish truck. No special skills or lost expertise needed. For the price of a crate motor, new Trans, setup to run the lockup, buying carbs and dizzy, all the hours to set it up, tune and make it work... ls may be way cheaper and easier for you.
It may be more reliable, quicker to enjoy, and cost less to get going for you in your unique situation.
Meanwhile, I'm going to go throw up now for having actually suggested there's a place for them.
Better yet, someone do it for me to stop it coming out. No takers? Darn it.
Because you don't have much mechanical experience, will be relying on a paid mechanic making shop rate to do your work, and you aren't going to learn as you do the work yourself...
Maybe an *ack* couch cough, ls-swap *GAG* might be a better ticket for you. One they're installed in a stock formulation they just sit there and need little tuning or work. Any shop can work on them as easily as a newish truck. No special skills or lost expertise needed. For the price of a crate motor, new Trans, setup to run the lockup, buying carbs and dizzy, all the hours to set it up, tune and make it work... ls may be way cheaper and easier for you.
It may be more reliable, quicker to enjoy, and cost less to get going for you in your unique situation.
Meanwhile, I'm going to go throw up now for having actually suggested there's a place for them.
They don't just drop in, unless its a speciality LS swapping shop with lots of expertise, a regular shop will likely need to spend time doing research, time the customer pays for to figure out how to retrofit and adapt newer technology into an outmoded car not designed for it. If thd OP ever had to take the LS swapped car to a another shop for repairs, they will charge for the time it takes them just to figure out the other guy's layout before they even begin diagnosis.
The advantage of a stock car is you can easily look up a factory repair manually to know how to repair it. When a car is heavily modified, repair manuals can become useless and mechanics will charge for the extra time it takes them to study and figure out the custom layout. If the OP wants to go the LS route, then a turnkey crate LS like the Erod may be best as it would at least be a fairly standardised layout by the OEM. But even a ready to run LS will need some custom fab work.
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