Can't Decide 76 Toro with a 455

[olds307 and 403]

I appreciate the Input. I also did a crap ton of research on it. everyone seems to have different tips and I want to be as prepared as I can with Parts before Starting but It sounds like No matter what I'll make multiple trips to the Parts store or Junk yard after I get started.

Even though I want to Drag race I want to drive the car.
Can't imagine what a pain a 2500 Stall would be like. I don't want to race launch at stop lights and parking lots.

A good 2500 stall will drive like a low stall under light throttle. My converter flashes at 2300 rpm but acts completely normal at lower throttle $200 PATC 2200-2500 stall lock up converter. Same thing with my 2004R trans, gramma shifts other than the positive shift into first as you pull to a stop. Step on it and mid- high 4K rpms with quick positive shifts, should be 5K+ with my governor mods.

 

[307 Gutless]

A good 2500 stall will drive like a low stall under light throttle. My converter flashes at 2300 rpm but acts completely normal at lower throttle $200 PATC 2200-2500 stall lock up converter. Same thing with my 2004R trans, gramma shifts other than the positive shift into first as you pull to a stop. Step on it and mid- high 4K rpms with quick positive shifts, should be 5K+ with my governor mods.

Alright, cool. The Internet had me convinced that it was Basically Launch Control. I thought it be like Dropping a Clutch from 2500 all the time.
I'm Brand new to this Automatic Business. I've never modified an Auto or had a High performance Auto transmission, In fact I've only ever had 1 Auto in my life before these Oldsmobiles came along.

 

[olds307 and 403]

The vast majority of Olds V8 powered cars were automatic being a step up from Chevy or Pontiac in the comfort department. A 2500 stall is a good place to start along with a deep pan with bottom feed filter, billet forward drum, hardened subshell and boosted line pressures. Go to the CK Performance site and look under Competition Parts. He basically has at what power level each of the mods are needed. Remember with dual exhaust you will be around 400 ft/lbs of torque. That means, a hardened stator( $20 cheap), hardened sunshell $50, should be in any build, and a billet forward drum($350) and upgraded clutches and steels. Extreme Automatics is another builder, here is there recommended pressures, my trans has 215-220 psi in the foward gears, any less is marginal http://extremeautomatics.com/assets/pdf/2004R_Transmission_Install.pdf

 

[Bar50]

The replacement converter for a Buick Turbo car with a 200-4R is 2250 RPM.

 

[307 Gutless]

The vast majority of Olds V8 powered cars were automatic being a step up from Chevy or Pontiac in the comfort department. A 2500 stall is a good place to start along with a deep pan with bottom feed filter, billet forward drum, hardened subshell and boosted line pressures. Go to the CK Performance site and look under Competition Parts. He basically has at what power level each of the mods are needed. Remember with dual exhaust you will be around 400 ft/lbs of torque. That means, a hardened stator( $20 cheap), hardened sunshell $50, should be in any build, and a billet forward drum($350) and upgraded clutches and steels. Extreme Automatics is another builder, here is there recommended pressures, my trans has 215-220 psi in the foward gears, any less is marginal http://extremeautomatics.com/assets/pdf/2004R_Transmission_Install.pdf

The Idea of Overdrive is Awesome especially with what seems so simple to install, but man! Looking into the Prices of a Strong 2004R makes a Th400 pretty tempting. I can see why so Many guys do it.

 

[Blue78]

Typically the higher the stall on the converter, the looser it is with part throttle. This "looseness" is further exaggerated by lower numerical gears. Like everyone here is saying a nice 2500 stall conveter with your gears and the torque of the 455 would work well.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I agree on the price of a built 2004R, I am going to pick up a junk yard TH400 short tail for my 88 Cutlass. I will add a shift kit, 2500 to 3000 stall converter with dual trans coolers. With any luck my current drive will work with a yoke change. Even a built TH350 is a crap shoot to build behind Olds torque. I have a good 70 TH350 core but it would cost $1000 in parts to live. My current 2004R has a hardened stator, shift kit, Hughes deep pan and 4L60E bottom feed filter. I has upgraded clutches and better than stock clutches but no upgraded hard parts. I figure the 325 HP and 350 TQ this Olds 350 should put is about max in the reliability of this 2004R. My 403 stroker(424ci) for the 88 should do 450hp/500TQ without breaking a sweat.

 

[307 Gutless]

I agree on the price of a built 2004R, I am going to pick up a junk yard TH400 short tail for my 88 Cutlass. I will add a shift kit, 2500 to 3000 stall converter with dual trans coolers. With any luck my current drive will work with a yoke change. Even a built TH350 is a crap shoot to build behind Olds torque. I have a good 70 TH350 core but it would cost $1000 in parts to live. My current 2004R has a hardened stator, shift kit, Hughes deep pan and 4L60E bottom feed filter. I has upgraded clutches and better than stock clutches but no upgraded hard parts. I figure the 325 HP and 350 TQ this Olds 350 should put is about max in the reliability of this 2004R. My 403 stroker(424ci) for the 88 should do 450hp/500TQ without breaking a sweat.

So the Short tail is the 4"
Do you still need to Modify the Driveline to make that one fit where a TH200 or a Th350 was? or just the Yoke?
I only want to do it once. So I better get my rear end and transmission at the same time. It looks to me like the A body 10 or 12 bolt with the Umi control arms is a Good cost effective way to do it. and I bet I could get all of that with a Turbo 400 for the Price of a Good 2004r. Got that Tax Return Burning a hole in my pocket and I don't want to waste it or end up broke with a car that won't get down the Road.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Problem is the 455 isn't the best to run at extended high rpm. The big bearings need clearance and machining, bang on to last. I wouldn't go more than 3.23 gearing with a tall tire with a 3 SPD if you plan any long highway trips with the car. Another reason I like the Olds 350 better, smaller 2.5"/2.125" bearing sizes(3"/2.5" for the 455) plus the wider intake and flat valve angle compared to the "C" 350 means a better torque curve compared to a similar sbc 350.

 

[307 Gutless]

The Longest Trip I'd ever really take in it would be to the drag strip. 40 Miles
My wife Has a Neon for Road trips or long driving. And I spend a lot of time on my Superbike. Work is only 12 miles away and I don't mind having a small growing cheap car collection. I could live with 55mph or even surface streets. Hell traffic get's so bad here that sometimes I can't even get over 45mph on the freeway going to work unless I'm on the bike. I'm fine with a 5000RPM engine. I actually think a Low Revving Powerhouse is cooler. I'm sure that if I can squeeze 400hp out of It I'll have a Perma-grin. with. If I can run 13.99 I'll be happy. My last 0-60 took 17.5 seconds. If I need to travel at the Speed of sound and go into another dimension that's what My Zx14 is for.