Agreed. I think I mentioned earlier that a cheap cam watching what FP does during driving conditions and not just measured while parked in the driveway could play an issue. We see more of that aftermarket wiring mess extending back there so......
Carb Stalling Troubleshooting...Flooded ?
- Thread starter Tynan918
- Start date
- Status
Drove it about 30 min to get gas last night (900 rpm at idle, 700 rpm in gear), let it run while I pumped the gas and it drove fine...
Here is this morning, running and engine warm, and weather being around 60° this morning...
Here is this morning, running and engine warm, and weather being around 60° this morning...
"NORMAL ENGINE OPERATION:
At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 14 in. and 22 in. Hg. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause the vacuum to drop below 5 in., then rebound to 23 in. or more.
GENERAL IGNITION TROUBLE OR STICKING VALVES:
With the engine at idle, the continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. You should check things like spark-plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high-tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may point to sticking valves.
INTAKE SYSTEM LEAKAGE, VALVE TIMING OR LOW COMPRESSION:
A vacuum reading at idle that is much lower than normal might indicate leakage through the intake manifold gaskets, manifold to carburetor gaskets, vacuum brake booster or the vacuum modulator. Low readings could also be caused by very late valve timing or worn piston rings." https://actron.com/content/engine-performance-testing-vacuum-gauge#:~:text=A vacuum gauge shows the,Valve train
Ok so it flunctuates a couple of inches on the gauge every few seconds :
"GENERAL IGNITION TROUBLE OR STICKING VALVES:
With the engine at idle, the continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. You should check things like spark-plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high-tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may point to sticking valves."
Shouldn't be sticking valves because it doesn't fluctuate 3 to 4 inches, it fluctuates 1 to 2 inches... But if it happens to be sticking valves, how do I fix that ?
Shouldn't be an intake system leakage, valve timing or low compression problem because the gauge isn't in the red/late timing area...
Troubleshooting -
"You should check things like spark-plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high-tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil."
1. Spark plug gap - I gapped the spark plugs to factory specs, could the spark plugs be bad ?
2. The ignition circuit - ?
3. High tension cables - like spark plug cables with no slack ?
4. Distributor cap and ignition coil - operating correctly.
At idling speed, an engine at sea level should show a steady vacuum reading between 14 in. and 22 in. Hg. A quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause the vacuum to drop below 5 in., then rebound to 23 in. or more.
GENERAL IGNITION TROUBLE OR STICKING VALVES:
With the engine at idle, the continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. You should check things like spark-plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high-tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may point to sticking valves.
INTAKE SYSTEM LEAKAGE, VALVE TIMING OR LOW COMPRESSION:
A vacuum reading at idle that is much lower than normal might indicate leakage through the intake manifold gaskets, manifold to carburetor gaskets, vacuum brake booster or the vacuum modulator. Low readings could also be caused by very late valve timing or worn piston rings." https://actron.com/content/engine-performance-testing-vacuum-gauge#:~:text=A vacuum gauge shows the,Valve train
Ok so it flunctuates a couple of inches on the gauge every few seconds :
"GENERAL IGNITION TROUBLE OR STICKING VALVES:
With the engine at idle, the continued fluctuation of 1 to 2 inches may indicate an ignition problem. You should check things like spark-plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high-tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may point to sticking valves."
Shouldn't be sticking valves because it doesn't fluctuate 3 to 4 inches, it fluctuates 1 to 2 inches... But if it happens to be sticking valves, how do I fix that ?
Shouldn't be an intake system leakage, valve timing or low compression problem because the gauge isn't in the red/late timing area...
Troubleshooting -
"You should check things like spark-plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high-tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil."
1. Spark plug gap - I gapped the spark plugs to factory specs, could the spark plugs be bad ?
2. The ignition circuit - ?
3. High tension cables - like spark plug cables with no slack ?
4. Distributor cap and ignition coil - operating correctly.
Should I run a compression test and check the spark on all the plugs ?
Should I replace the spark plugs ? Currently I have the NGK UR4 plugs in it I bought back in July...
But I took them out for a compression test, and found they were fuel fouled and I cleaned them with not much visual results and installed them back in...
Not too long ago within the week I removed spark plug #1 to check the timing marks and this is what they looked like...
Should I replace the spark plugs ? Currently I have the NGK UR4 plugs in it I bought back in July...
But I took them out for a compression test, and found they were fuel fouled and I cleaned them with not much visual results and installed them back in...
Gauge isn't showing timing as an issue...
"You should check things like spark-plug gap, primary ignition circuit, high-tension cables, distributor cap or ignition coil. Fluctuations of 3 to 4 inches may point to sticking valves."
Which one of those says timing ?
If it isn't broke, don't fix it.
We've already been over this. It's a primary adjustment.
Good luck with your fine tuning.
Good luck with your fine tuning.
If the engine if fully warmed up, and it's 60+ degrees out, you shouldn't have white smoke out your tailpipe as well. Could just be old fuel, which doesn't do favors to your carb work.
If your checking and testing manifold vacuum may as well compression test the engine. Ignore the precanned language from that website. Large bounces in the manifold vacuum lean more towards ring wear, blown headgasket, possibly between cylinders where you don't mix oil/coolant or find external evidence, possibly dragging valves like you said but what isn't said is could be a camshaft issue from non zddp oil damaging a lobe - that would impact proper valve operation too.
For everything you are doing, I dont understand the hatred of the timing light either.
Yes your right it is a primary adjustment, however the vacuum gauge isn't showing a timing issue... And I'm still not home to use my timing light, but I will when I have it handy.
And thanks, I appreciate your input 👍🏾
I have Lucas HotRod high zinc motor oil in it and oil level is good...
I did a compression test on the 13th of August 13th, but another guy told me if these results were correct, the engine shouldn't even run... What do you all think ?
I don't hate the timing light, I just can't grasp the understanding of how to use it properly and it frustrates me... I just don't understand the dial and how it works...
And I just don't have it with me where I'm at... I used it once to figure out my timing was off.
On top of that, I've took out and dropped that dizzy I don't know how many times, and the last time I even adjusted the valves.
Might just need to go grab the timing gun and do it all over again, with the guidance of you guys this time around.
- Status
Similar threads
