Carb Stalling Troubleshooting...Flooded ?

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ck80

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With that being said, would I need a leak down gauge ?

I only have $40 to work with at the moment, and in store prices are $70 and up on the leak down gauges in my area.
Some parts stores do a free rental on specialty tools like that in the hopes you buy repair parts from them after. You leave a security deposit, take the tools, then get the deposit back when you safely return the tools.

Do you need to do it at all? No/it depends. You could take apart more of the motor searching the source of the problem.

You could also just try to get it functioning as well as possible (but its never going to behave as an unbroken car would) and baby it as I said in one of the options, while planning for an eventual replacement motor.

Really it just depends if you care about figuring out why the compression failed, or decide to in the longer term just write off/replace the motor. To some degree poor performance and some drivability behavior issues are coming from that worn out motor.
 
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Tynan918

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Found this video helpful explaining the advance timing gun, and using it to find initial timing and total timing...
 
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Tynan918

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Some parts stores do a free rental on specialty tools like that in the hopes you buy repair parts from them after. You leave a security deposit, take the tools, then get the deposit back when you safely return the tools.

Do you need to do it at all? No/it depends. You could take apart more of the motor searching the source of the problem.

You could also just try to get it functioning as well as possible (but its never going to behave as an unbroken car would) and baby it as I said in one of the options, while planning for an eventual replacement motor.

Really it just depends if you care about figuring out why the compression failed, or decide to in the longer term just write off/replace the motor. To some degree poor performance and some drivability behavior issues are coming from that worn out motor.
Gotcha, well let's get this timing correct first, then jump into the compression troubleshooting.
 
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g0thiac

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You could also just try to get it functioning as well as possible (but its never going to behave as an unbroken car would) and baby it as I said in one of the options, while planning for an eventual replacement motor.
Found this video helpful explaining the advance timing gun, and using it to find initial timing and total timing...
I definitely would go with CK80’s advice. For a 305, tune it the best it can be, and drive it til you can’t anymore.
 
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g0thiac

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Tynan918

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What is that sound of rattling steel? I don’t suppose you got empty pop cans in your engine bay ctfu.

Also it sounds like the starter needs the correct shim or replaced entirely, but if you plan to spend anymore money?

It should be on an engine swap, or a rebuild kit like this. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/27395242019...d=link&campid=5335822911&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
Engine idle ended up being too low (below 500 rpm)...raised it up to 600 rpm and the rattling stopped... But I honestly think it has to do with my flywheel, I've been planning to replace it. Did sound like cans in it 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Brand new starter and with the shims it doesn't work, without the shims it does.

Back to the timing... I think I have it correct...

TESTING TOTAL TIMING:
With the distributor vacuum hose disconnected from the carburetor, the rpm at 3500, and the timing light dialed at 34° shows the timing mark on 0° on the timing tab.

TESTING INTIAL TIMING:
With the distributor vacuum hose disconnected from the carburetor, the rpm at 600, and the timing light dialed at 0° shows the timing mark on 8° BTDC on the timing tab...or should initial timing be tested with the distributor vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor and connected to the carburetor ?

(I shot a video it, waiting for it to finish uploading...)

Sounds really good, but the vacuum gauge is showing "Late Timing"... What's up with that ?
Screenshot_20211004-113940_Video Player.jpg
 
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olskool

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Sep 26, 2021
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Hmmmmmm water in the gas tank ? I have found little black specks floating around the clear plastic filter before... Never understood why there would be black specks unless the gas was old or the tank was dirty.
the GTO would rev up sitting still and ran like a top, till you went down the road about 2 miles then it would start sputtering and shut off. you could restart and do it all over again. i changed the coil, plugs ,points and condenser and rebuilt the carb. when i got the tank off there was enough water in the bottom of the tank to just cup in the palm of your hand, that's all! and that is all it takes. if there is a lot of water it will hardly run at all, but a small amount is exactly what you are describing,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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