MCS is the blue plug on the passanger side, adjustent screw is in center front of the airhorn, as long as the temper proof cap is out a flat blade screw driver and dwell meter are needed to adjust
Carburetor help
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MCS is the blue plug on the passanger side, adjustent screw is in center front of the airhorn, as long as the temper proof cap is out a flat blade screw driver and dwell meter are needed to adjust
do you have a adjustable fuel pressure gauge to make sure your pump is not delivering too much pressure. I'm not sure if backing off the pressure to around 4 lbs will help prevent flooding if the float level is too high like it does on a non electric quadrajet. One thing you can try is to clamp off the fuel line and run the car till the carb is out of gas. If there is something preventing the needle from seating that usually cures it.
Well, I don't have my brains handy [my notebook] but step one is to make sure the engine is warm so closed loop operation can happen. Once warm, and you tap the throttle hard, the choke should be released, and fast idle cam should release, and idle should drop to normal. If the choke is not releasing => problem. You can check that by making sure the primary butterfly is loose vs still stuck shut or nearly shut. Then, if you do not have a dwell meter, the bare bones check would be, shut the car back off, short A-B on the OBD1 block under the dash [upper right hand corner and the one just to the left],
Online pic I just found . . .
Turn on the key but do not start the engine, and listen for a clicking sound on the carb. If no clicking sound, the solenoid in the carb is likely toast which defaults to full rich. If you have had a check engine light, you can also check for fault codes the hard way by counting how many times the check engine light blinks while in diagnostic mode. You can easily check for a sane ECM by looking for a 12 code after entering diagnostic mode. So, as above, turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should then see one LONG blink of the check engine light followed by a delay followed by two short blinks. This should tell you the ECM is alive. You can then read any other codes it has stored for a check engine light that will follow the initial 12. For example, if you get 2 long blinks, a delay, then 2 short blinks, that is code 22 which I think is a TPS fault [though not 100% - I need my brains!].
If you do the above, there are no codes other than the initial 12, you are hearing the carb solenoid clicking, then a vacuum leak can cause over rich because more air makes the computer over dwell the solenoid to dump in more fuel to achieve the proper A/F. This usually will make the car idle faster than normal too though which is another symptom to look for.
If none of above, report back and we can dig further . . . I'll look for my brains!
Online pic I just found . . .
Turn on the key but do not start the engine, and listen for a clicking sound on the carb. If no clicking sound, the solenoid in the carb is likely toast which defaults to full rich. If you have had a check engine light, you can also check for fault codes the hard way by counting how many times the check engine light blinks while in diagnostic mode. You can easily check for a sane ECM by looking for a 12 code after entering diagnostic mode. So, as above, turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should then see one LONG blink of the check engine light followed by a delay followed by two short blinks. This should tell you the ECM is alive. You can then read any other codes it has stored for a check engine light that will follow the initial 12. For example, if you get 2 long blinks, a delay, then 2 short blinks, that is code 22 which I think is a TPS fault [though not 100% - I need my brains!].
If you do the above, there are no codes other than the initial 12, you are hearing the carb solenoid clicking, then a vacuum leak can cause over rich because more air makes the computer over dwell the solenoid to dump in more fuel to achieve the proper A/F. This usually will make the car idle faster than normal too though which is another symptom to look for.
If none of above, report back and we can dig further . . . I'll look for my brains!
Www
I'll try that I tried to replace all vacuum lines going to carb and have had a check engine light on for a while but could it be from an oil leak I have from pan gasket?I really appreciate your time... Will get back to you as soon as I can with free time.Well, I don't have my brains handy [my notebook] but step one is to make sure the engine is warm so closed loop operation can happen. Once warm, and you tap the throttle hard, the choke should be released, and fast idle cam should release, and idle should drop to normal. If the choke is not releasing => problem. You can check that by making sure the primary butterfly is loose vs still stuck shut or nearly shut. Then, if you do not have a dwell meter, the bare bones check would be, shut the car back off, short A-B on the OBD1 block under the dash [upper right hand corner and the one just to the left],
Online pic I just found . . .
Turn on the key but do not start the engine, and listen for a clicking sound on the carb. If no clicking sound, the solenoid in the carb is likely toast which defaults to full rich. If you have had a check engine light, you can also check for fault codes the hard way by counting how many times the check engine light blinks while in diagnostic mode. You can easily check for a sane ECM by looking for a 12 code after entering diagnostic mode. So, as above, turn the key on but do not start the engine. You should then see one LONG blink of the check engine light followed by a delay followed by two short blinks. This should tell you the ECM is alive. You can then read any other codes it has stored for a check engine light that will follow the initial 12. For example, if you get 2 long blinks, a delay, then 2 short blinks, that is code 22 which I think is a TPS fault [though not 100% - I need my brains!].
If you do the above, there are no codes other than the initial 12, you are hearing the carb solenoid clicking, then a vacuum leak can cause over rich because more air makes the computer over dwell the solenoid to dump in more fuel to achieve the proper A/F. This usually will make the car idle faster than normal too though which is another symptom to look for.
If none of above, report back and we can dig further . . . I'll look for my brains!
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