Chevrolet Malibu: Rear Axle/Diff problem

[MalibuHacon]

Thank you, i believe the universal joints was not the problems. so I will tighten up that nut according to the specs you gave me i guess. I will of course double check, but i can't really tell exactly what's wrong without a second opinion. But someone in the club that have 30 years of experience told me to just tighten up the nut you are talking about, So I guess i'll tighten it up after checking the yokes..

Is there anything I need to pay attention to while removing the driveshaft, do I have to remove at the transmission as well? do i simply remove the 4 bolts that hold it to the universal link at the diff.?

btw: How do I know if the universal links are bad? / or is it called yokes? Also there is about the same amount of play where the driveshaft meets the transmission, (Up and down play, when pushing the drive shaft up and down)

 

[Bonnewagon]

Good- someone there knows what they are doing. Have them help you. Don't try it without an inch pound torque wrench or you may ruin it. All you want to do is take out the slop and bring it back to something acceptable, like 10 or 15 inch pounds. And read the book! If you have a factory manual, for any model GM rear wheel drive car, it will explain what is involved and the theory behind the operation of the differential. If reading it gives you a headache, then you are on the right track. It's very involved but once you understand how it all works you will be able to work on it with confidence.

 

[MalibuHacon]

Thank you, I will look at both of my manuals. But it sounds like a simple operation from what you explain. It shouldn't take to long either? When replacing the wheel bearing the other day, it got very close to the deadline after 5 hours, and not having the best of tools.

 

[Bonnewagon]

No, it's not a hard job, just as long as you do it right. As I said, get up under there and verify the problem first. If you can grab the driveshaft at the pinion flange and wiggle it- you need to tighten it up. If it feels solid- then look elsewhere.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Whooa! The driveshaft is sloppy at the transmission end too? It should be tight, no slop. If you can move the yokes around then something is wrong. Most likely you need new universal joints. How many miles on this car? It is probably due new U-joints. Do you have a parts shop available with a machinist? It is not that hard to press out the old joints and press in new ones. But I always seem to crimp the ends of the yoke and then the U-joints get pinched and wear out fast. A shop can do it easily but finding one that works with rear wheel drive cars and trucks is getting harder to find. Maybe the guys at the car club know how to do it and can show you? Taking the driveshaft out is not hard. What you do is unbolt the two straps at the companion flange. Then take a big screwdriver and pry the shaft forward a bit. It will come loose and fall so be ready to catch it. Don't let the bearing caps fall off or the bearings will get loose. Then you pull the whole driveshaft away from the transmission. The yoke will come out of the transmission and oil will drain out. This is where it is nice to have a spare yoke that you can quickly push in to the transmission and stop the oil from draining. Alternately you can jack up the rear of the car enough so that the oil flows towards the front of the trans and won't come out.

 

[MalibuHacon]

So I have to remove the entire driveshaft, at the transmission as well in order tighten up the pinion nut?

I don't know exactly where the slop is, someone who helped me look at it told me it was a bearing inside of the transmission, but i can't confirm anything. I didn't even know about this until after having my car inspected, when driveshafts, bearings, and axles was up next 😛 .

The car has about 180 000 kilometers or 111 000 miles. "Don't let the bearing caps fall off or the bearings will get loose" That sounds scary! ... what bearing caps?

 

[Bonnewagon]

No, to get at the pinion nut you just unbolt the two straps at the flange. Pry the driveshaft away and don't let it fall. Just move it out of the way and tie it up with a piece of baling wire. DO NOT pull the driveshaft from the transmission at this time or the oil will come out. OK, now if the bearing inside the transmission is bad, then the yoke will be sloppy in the tail housing. You need to test it and see which it is. The U-joint is not that hard to do- the transmission bearing is a whole lot harder to get at. The U-joints have four bearing caps filled with needle bearings. Grease holds the bearings in place but when they get old they just fall out and scatter all over the place. When you go to pry the driveshaft away from the flange at least one bearing cap will stick and the bearings will try to get loose. Go slowly. This is a U-joint- see the four caps? Some are held in place by clips and some by snaps. Let us know which type you have.

 

[MalibuHacon]

Okay, I'll begin with checking, and figuring where the slop is, and then I'll tighten up that nut. I'll get some help while I do it, there is always someone who knows more than I do, and think its fun when someone use the shop. And I'll get an opinion on what might be good/bad. I'll update you once I get a chance to lift up the car and do this. probably Thursday. Thank you for the good explanations. 🙂