I'm thinking this was what Edison felt like talking to Tesla. I may steal the @#$% out of these ideas, and pretend to the locals that I am a genius.
MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)
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I'm thinking this was what Edison felt like talking to Tesla. I may steal the @#$% out of these ideas, and pretend to the locals that I am a genius.
LEDs are here. As are the some EIO plugs for HPTuners MVPI. Two are $14 (same as OEM) and two are $2 knock-offs (testing their performance). F*ck paying mark-up on a simple part.
Bought enough for all the cars that have WBO2s and other sensors because re&re-ing these is an annoyance when tuning multiple cars and leaving wires dangling every which where is just ignorant.
Bought enough for all the cars that have WBO2s and other sensors because re&re-ing these is an annoyance when tuning multiple cars and leaving wires dangling every which where is just ignorant.
Those look just like the EFILive plugs. Can you not do a serial wideband log? That's how my widebands are set up.
Don't let the horsepower and torque numbers fool you, they are wrong now that the air/fuel calculations are skewed with the fuel being delivered from an outside source (the ECM thinks it is making less power than it actually is). The tune is pretty much spot on with just one try at it (I don't suck!), added a few more percentage points to the wastegate duty cycle (50%) and got the boost closer to 10psi. A good indicator for how much is being sprayed into the engine from the alky injection is the IDC dropping to ~50% of the 74pph IFR; meaning there is a lot of head room now. The problem is that both turbo and the MAP sensor are done at 14ish PSI... so that's where that will sit until further upgrades are made.
The next round of tuning will see the boost cranked up further, the AFR leaned out, and a sprinkle of timing added - hopefully the torque converter doesn't explode as it is just a restalled jobber D5.
After I had finished making "my rounds" I stopped and talked to my neighbour (340 Demon) and showed him the car. At first he was giving me the "why are you showing me this POS?" face, then I popped the hood and he was all "Ah ha! I knew there was something up with this car." Good chat... I missed just shooting the sh*t.
The next round of tuning will see the boost cranked up further, the AFR leaned out, and a sprinkle of timing added - hopefully the torque converter doesn't explode as it is just a restalled jobber D5.
After I had finished making "my rounds" I stopped and talked to my neighbour (340 Demon) and showed him the car. At first he was giving me the "why are you showing me this POS?" face, then I popped the hood and he was all "Ah ha! I knew there was something up with this car." Good chat... I missed just shooting the sh*t.
Time drill and tap an intake manifold to see what the MATs are like with the meth on.
There is quite a controversy over those open element IAT's. Many will tell you they read inaccurate when the meth/washer fluid/or whatever you're using hits them if it's not atomized. I personally believe that to be some BS and believe that the numbers provided are accurate. I guess my point is that someone somewhere will tell you your numbers from that sensor are BS - it won't be me though.
It will read ultra quick from my experience. We can drop 140 degree IAT's to 85 at 20 gallons per hour in less than 2 seconds. I did over due it a couple of times though and added too much too quickly on the Cutlass. Also, if you're running pump gas, then do yourself a favor and get a consistent meth blend. Washer fluid will not cut it for consistency. I damaged the motor using washer fluid of varying percentages of methanol. Since then we've used nothing other than the Snow Performance stuff that is 50/50. The 50 percent methanol will burn and cool. Dropping it out will cause a lean condition (I promise unfortuantely).
Good luck and cant wait to see some results from this thing.
It will read ultra quick from my experience. We can drop 140 degree IAT's to 85 at 20 gallons per hour in less than 2 seconds. I did over due it a couple of times though and added too much too quickly on the Cutlass. Also, if you're running pump gas, then do yourself a favor and get a consistent meth blend. Washer fluid will not cut it for consistency. I damaged the motor using washer fluid of varying percentages of methanol. Since then we've used nothing other than the Snow Performance stuff that is 50/50. The 50 percent methanol will burn and cool. Dropping it out will cause a lean condition (I promise unfortuantely).
Good luck and cant wait to see some results from this thing.
In the good old days I used to use E85 in my Buick's alcohol injection kit - and shot it right at the IAT sensor. 30 psi. Factory original head gaskets. Tuning smart was the key.
This sensor will be at the top of the intake manifold near the front runners. If the "meth" hasn't atomized by the time it leaves the discharge side of the turbo and gets there it never will.
Once I get going we're just going to go with straight methyl hydrate from tractor supply. Sometimes I just like to do things to annoy people.
That sensor was about 10% the cost of a "new" engine. LOL.
There's something to be said about using a 50/50 mix. No one talks about waters reaction and it's cooling capabilities. I ran 60 psi of boost, sometimes more, and the only thing that kept me in the safe zone was 50/50.
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