I want to do an LS-swapped 3 Gen Camaro for Natasha... If I can sell the TBSS this will happen sooner rather than later.
MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)
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I want to do an LS-swapped 3 Gen Camaro for Natasha... If I can sell the TBSS this will happen sooner rather than later.
Its a little winter out, but Kenny U Pull always has a row of trucks with vortecs in them. Hard to beat $350 if you are able to pull it yourself.
Yeah, but I can barely muster the gumption to do that kind of work in my climate controlled garage these days... much less in the elements. I'd rather let someone else eat the labour hardships for a few more bucks and drop it in the bed of my truck.
Cleaned the cylinder decks and chased the bolt holes, drilled and tapped the valley cover and added a PCV port (hogged the fitting out to 1/4"), slapped a used '02 LS1 cam in (reused the stock lifters, trays, retainer plate, and timing set).
Going to port the oil pump tomorrow... and then start on the heads. 😉
I plan to shim some used LS6 valve springs .060".
Going to port the oil pump tomorrow... and then start on the heads. 😉
I plan to shim some used LS6 valve springs .060".
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That oil pump isn't going to port itself.
Also bought a 2001 4.8L today - $500 complete.
Also bought a 2001 4.8L today - $500 complete.
Couple of things I like to do when reworking a stock oil pump:
1. Port it for better flow and less restriction;
2. Lap the faces of the housing, plate, and inner and outer rotors - 1000 grit;
3. Shim the relief spring (used .125") this time; and
4. Pack that b*tch with Vaseline and break-in lube.
When you install these things you don't need to go through an extensive shimming procedure to centre the rotor/housing. I just jam this tool on there and she is right as rain.
Oh and blue Loctite on the bolts.
1. Port it for better flow and less restriction;
2. Lap the faces of the housing, plate, and inner and outer rotors - 1000 grit;
3. Shim the relief spring (used .125") this time; and
4. Pack that b*tch with Vaseline and break-in lube.
When you install these things you don't need to go through an extensive shimming procedure to centre the rotor/housing. I just jam this tool on there and she is right as rain.
Oh and blue Loctite on the bolts.
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Do you find porting and lapping make a big difference? I know shimming would help but This is the first I’ve seen someone tweak the factory oil pump. I’m quite curious about it.
Better flow and oil pressure with turbo builds you loose some psi of oil pressure.
I do this to just about all my oil pumps as well regardless of what the build is.
After 100,000 miles these things tend to wear, and already have mass production manufacturing tolerances and being assembled by monkeys it is prudent to take a few moments to clean things up (we are talking about taking off just enough to remove the existing varnishing, high spots and burrs) - 1000 grit isn't going to remove much material from steel or aluminum very quickly.
As for the porting the idea is to ease the transition of fluid in and out of the pump. Smoothing and enlarging the openings is just good practice. Nothing done with the porting is going to increase the volume of the pump, that would be done with a new rotor assembly.
Shimming, as mentioned by TURNA , is going to make up for loose bearing clearances in a high-mileage engine that is under double the power output, and the greater demand for pressure at the centre section of the turbos - because the more outlets you add the prospect for pressure drop is higher. It also makes up for a 100K mile relief spring - so 3 #8 washers (or a slug) later you have the recommended .120-.125".
EDIT: I should add that I have done this to all the oil pumps in my LS motors. I have no interest in a high volume pump because there is a high likelihood that you will empty the pan in a high RPM application.
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