Camber gain goes both ways, and while the upper arm has more of a say in the matter being shorter the lower arm plays its part as well. Bump steer is absolutely influenced by upper and lower arm geometry, and arm geometry is technically ball joint geometry. You can make the arm any shape you want and it won't affect a thing. Moving inboard and outboard (BJs) mounting points is what affects all this stuff. Outer tie rod end is step 1, tie rod length and inner tie rod location is step 2. The tie rod ideally needs to keep up with the upper and lower arms, when it doesn't you get bump steer.
CPP C5 spindles
- Thread starter xylorex
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Camber gain goes both ways, and while the upper arm has more of a say in the matter being shorter the lower arm plays its part as well. Bump steer is absolutely influenced by upper and lower arm geometry, and arm geometry is technically ball joint geometry. You can make the arm any shape you want and it won't affect a thing. Moving inboard and outboard (BJs) mounting points is what affects all this stuff. Outer tie rod end is step 1, tie rod length and inner tie rod location is step 2. The tie rod ideally needs to keep up with the upper and lower arms, when it doesn't you get bump steer.
I don't know if you have ever used a bump steer gauge and have adjusted the bump steer but I have on all our circle track cars.
Nope, just read a lot about it. I'm about to order a bump steer kit for my Camaro and intend to shine a laser at a piece of paper taped to my garage door to measure for the best results as opposed to merely bolting it on like most do. I'm curious to see where I start and where I end up.
on a street car I just make sure the tie rod arm is parallel the lower control arm I am not interested in removing the spring and shock just to measure the bump steer, I'm only trying to limit the bump steer, you will never eliminate it.
This isn't a street car and after watching a couple Youtube videos where people do measure it's crazy the way it jumps back and forth with different shims. It looks like it doesn't respond linearly to adding or removing shims at all but yeah, at the end of the day they only made it less bad. If I get a tenth or 2 on a 2 minute lap it'll be worth it. It'll be interesting to see if I can really feel any sort of difference.
Not too sure why everyone has a hard on for the sealed bearings.
Timken, REM polished bearings and races with a DRP bearing preloader allows for almost 0 friction, will last forever, and is more stable than a sealed hub.
All that and youve spent half the money you wouldve on Timken sealed units.
Timken, REM polished bearings and races with a DRP bearing preloader allows for almost 0 friction, will last forever, and is more stable than a sealed hub.
All that and youve spent half the money you wouldve on Timken sealed units.
That's pretty damn cool. It seems like you can get away with less preload that way with the inner races being held rigid and parallel?
You still torque it pretty hard, its just that the inner spacer is preventing you from locking the bearings up. Same principal as a pinion spacer/crush sleeve.
Heres some real data
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