BUILD THREAD Do I get a membership card now?

Status
Not open for further replies.

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
13,565
113
Western MN
Man this thing has been throwing me for a loop.

Charged it all last night with the old questionable battery, clicked solenoid once and dead this AM. Swapped charger to the battery that has been in the wagon the whole time, charged it all day, put that battery back in after work and same situation, 12-13 V key on and measured at the battery, like 5-8 volts in the car. Charger stopped charging it so it was full.

Last resort I parted out the 2+2 AGAIN and stole that battery, put it in and it fired right up. Guess that battery went out at the same time I swapped the ignition module over?

Took it for a drive and it still misfired, same situation as last time. Rolled in the throttle and it backfired hard and got pretty loud. Looked under the car and assumed the slip coupler blew off my Y pipe or something and nothing obvious. Sounded like it was coming from the back of the car and looked at the muffler and it blew the bottom of the muffler out. FAWK.
1559705449567.png

1559705457281.png


Realized I might have a bad ignition module (reminder this one AND the coil were good and ran for like 100 miles before the incident at the track) and put the original one on from when I put the engine together that had a bad coil.

Took it for a drive and it is running 80% id say. Under boost its great but light cruise it again slightly studders and at park it will misfire a bit, at hot idle in gear you can really feel it. Not a dead miss but its still going back to #4.

Pulled the plugs and it looks good. Top is #1 since it shares with #4 and bottom right is #2. Bottom left is #4. 4 does seem to have a bit of brown on the ceramic, but nothing super serious???
1559705483653.png


Heres a little video you can see the #4 is 50-100F colder than every other cylinder. After a cruise you can see all cylinders are at a good 600F and #4 is 500F. You can hear it chug a bit when all coils are plugged in and get a little worse when I unplug the #4 coil but not 100% dead like 2 or 6 sound like when unplugged. Again, it sounds like #4 is missing half the time. I can feel it when I am in the car in gear creeping with my foot riding the brakes. It has a random "bump" miss you can feel. This video is idle in gear with the wheels chocked and park brake on.

So rundown, between the time at the track when it started running bad I have

A. Blown the muffler
B. Battery that was in it went to crap
C. Blown a known good coil with 100 miles on my car
D. Killed the ignition module

And I have
1. Conducted compression and leak down and looks good
2. Swapped to LS coils
3. Swapped to a different battery
4. Checked all plugs
5. Checked valve lift on #2 and #4
6. Swapped #2 and #4 injector which Im pretty sure was un needed, I didn't plug the injector I killed the coil, or perhaps the ignition module went out and took the coil out at the same time?

I am pretty sure the valves are opening like they should, I am getting good spark I think (I sorta electrocuted my self when I took the plug wire off when it was running, ouch, 40K volts straight to the nipples, thats why I resorted to the coil plug wiring instead), compression is good, and the leakdown shows the head gasket should be fine, also considering i don't hear air from the rad when I did the leak down or bubbles in the rad when running.

And I have fixed 80% of what was broke when I took it to the track, but that last 20% is a b*tch. Strange that so many things have went out at the same time.

Is it worth throwing another ignition module at the car? Just seems odd that #1 is fine but #4 is bad since they share a trigger. If the module or my wiring was bad I'd assume #1 would be burn cold or wouldn't run that much worse when unplugged.

This car is starting to turn into that suburban thread somewhere else on this forum.....

 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

TURNA

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Jul 24, 2009
10,941
19,992
113
Socialist NY
If the ICM was bad there is a good chance you fried one or more of the coils
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
13,565
113
Western MN
Threw new plugs in it and no improvement.

Swapped to a different coil on #4 no improvement.

Did a cylinder balance test, #4 drops no RPM when I unplug it, all others drop the RPM 50-100 RPM.

Temps on the right side
#2 630F
#4 450F
#6 575
 

Turbo Zach

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 8, 2015
2,534
5,874
113
50130
No offense, but you are making me glad I went the route I did instead of going that route.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
13,565
113
Western MN
Well I dug out my sophomore level electrical engineering knowledge after I noticed I was missing 0.7 ohms between the spark module fuse and the P pin on the spark module. Stared at wiring diagrams for hours trying to find out what the heck I did wrong.

Did some math and I might be over or under powering the old coils or module somehow, so I sent Bob from Dynamic an email in my rough semi educated electrical engineering speak asking if I am crazy or not.

Best thing about engineering school, they teach you enough to be dangerous but not enough to be useful, lol.

If Bob is a marketer and not an engineer I will bug my EE buddy with the l67 fiero and tell him to learn me some zeros and ones.

DAMN YOU OHM's LAW!!!


Why is it on cylinder 4 only? Not sure. It could be missing random EVERYWHERE and #4 is just weak for some other reason.
1559794137469.png
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
13,565
113
Western MN
Correct. Which makes it seem like something mechanical on #4 since it shares spark with #1 and #1 is in spec compared to 3,5, 2 and 6
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
113
That's what I was getting at. Is there anything else common between the ignition systems? Did you ever upgrade the ground to the ICM? Also, make sure the sensors are getting full voltage and clean grounds (crank & cam position?). But it could be a mechanical problem like a lobe on the cam, broken ring, valve spring, or burnt/bent valve bleeding off combustion pressure.......
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor