I don't see a ignition module ground? Pin D is ref low ground but it goes to the ECM, not to the block.
BUILD THREAD Do I get a membership card now?
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
- Status
I see; it's a little different than the Series 2 I was dealing with. In the interest of basic troubleshooting, check: resistance between a known good ground and the ECM input (7th pin from right-can't read the #), pin B3 on the ECM, pins G & L on the ICM. To me, any variations on the latter 3 would point to a bad driver in the ECM or faulty wiring in between. You can temporarily ground the sensors for testing. When I was reading up on references, I found that they're basically (and allegedly) cleaned up signals only to be seen with an O-scope.
Those diagrams make it seem like the ICM gets grounded through the body of the module, so make sure that's clean, too.
Those diagrams make it seem like the ICM gets grounded through the body of the module, so make sure that's clean, too.
Well I got an answer from the Dynamic EFI guy that that resistance wire in the diagram must be wrong and not to worry about it.
I ended up changing injectors again on #4 to another one off the shelf and it seemed to fix it. I had changed that one a month ago so its odd I put a bad one in but I guess thats the luck of the draw.
Put a new battery in it, had to fix a pinched injector wire that was causing the short and popped fuse from me being dumb and using an impact to tighten the fuel rails down instead of a hand wrench.
Overall its back to 100% I think.
Next thing is fixed the blown up muffler from when it was backfiring. Its factory 2" exhaust and I have a 2.5" ultra flow knockoff sitting on the floor, I might get a pair of 2 to 2.5" adapters and make it fit. Factory muffler is center inlet and offset outlet, and my muffler is offset inlet and outlet so making it fit might be a little odd, but I have a welder and saw so that solves a lot of problems.
I ended up changing injectors again on #4 to another one off the shelf and it seemed to fix it. I had changed that one a month ago so its odd I put a bad one in but I guess thats the luck of the draw.
Put a new battery in it, had to fix a pinched injector wire that was causing the short and popped fuse from me being dumb and using an impact to tighten the fuel rails down instead of a hand wrench.
Overall its back to 100% I think.
Next thing is fixed the blown up muffler from when it was backfiring. Its factory 2" exhaust and I have a 2.5" ultra flow knockoff sitting on the floor, I might get a pair of 2 to 2.5" adapters and make it fit. Factory muffler is center inlet and offset outlet, and my muffler is offset inlet and outlet so making it fit might be a little odd, but I have a welder and saw so that solves a lot of problems.
Well been driving this thing daily this week and the master cylinder started leaking again, plus the brakes have always sucked on this car. I bought the upgraded toro/riv master that has been sitting on the shelf and swapped that over. Also got started on the blazer spindle/brake swap last night. Good news is the rotors and pads on the spindles i got from the salvage yard were almost new so I scotch brited the rotors and cleaned the rust flakes off the calipers a bit.
Took the old spindles off the wagon, only real issue is the brake lines were rusty on the 1/2" following the line nut (but fine everywhere else) so I ended up twisting the line off and reflaring them and then bending the line to fit into the blazer line bracket that mounts to the frame. Only other thing I noted that nobody else mentions is the UCA must be trimmed on the rear near the upper ball joint so the caliper bracket bolt doesn't hit the control arm at full lock. Never seen that before.
I ran out of time to get the drivers spindle bolted on and brakes bled since I spent like an hour cleaning old grease/dirt off the upper and lower balljoints on the car. Man, the previous owner LOVED greasing this car. There was a glob of grease the size of a tennis ball I scraped off each ball joint that oozed out.
AC parts are on order and I got the AC lines installed. Just need the receiver/drier and the seal kit.
Planned to take this car up to the back to the 50's car show in St. Paul this weekend and sit in the parking lot across the grounds but I don't have help to bleed the brakes on this thing so I guess I'm taking the 2+2.
Took the old spindles off the wagon, only real issue is the brake lines were rusty on the 1/2" following the line nut (but fine everywhere else) so I ended up twisting the line off and reflaring them and then bending the line to fit into the blazer line bracket that mounts to the frame. Only other thing I noted that nobody else mentions is the UCA must be trimmed on the rear near the upper ball joint so the caliper bracket bolt doesn't hit the control arm at full lock. Never seen that before.
I ran out of time to get the drivers spindle bolted on and brakes bled since I spent like an hour cleaning old grease/dirt off the upper and lower balljoints on the car. Man, the previous owner LOVED greasing this car. There was a glob of grease the size of a tennis ball I scraped off each ball joint that oozed out.
AC parts are on order and I got the AC lines installed. Just need the receiver/drier and the seal kit.
Planned to take this car up to the back to the 50's car show in St. Paul this weekend and sit in the parking lot across the grounds but I don't have help to bleed the brakes on this thing so I guess I'm taking the 2+2.
I've mentioned it a few times, then after some reflection, I realized it may be a dropped spindle thing. Is there a chance that you scored some Belltech drops at the boneyard?
I think you are right. I remember seeing this blazer had some lowering blocks under the rear axle and never thought of it. I looked and the beltech kit has lowering blocks in the kit for the rear.
I have a set of bare stock spindles on the floor, I might have to compare those to these and see. If these are lowering spindles. I might keep these lowering ones for my Cutlass and put the stock ones I have on the floor in the wagon if that is the case.
My reasoning was the position of the axle centerline and caliper height. Stock, there is no issue because the caliper is lower/under the UCA. Now, raise that 2" for a drop spindle, and the caliper hits......
liquidh8
Comic Book Super Hero
You could always use a hose and water bottle with brake fluid for a one man bleed, I do It all the time.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Toro master is a disk/disk one and is just a larger bore.
I have the caprice big bore master on my 2+2 but the pre 81 cars have a smaller bore on the booster that doesnt allow the newer aluminum base master. The late 2nd gen F bodies have a bigger bore but its an ugly steel resovoir I don't like.
And confirmation, freaking belltechs. Not sure if I should be happy or mad. They are going to be too low so looks like I gotta swap to the bare spindles I have on the floor. The stock springs are pretty much the right height so 2" drop is going to be SLAMMED.
Beltechs from a salvage yard in IA, wow....
I have the caprice big bore master on my 2+2 but the pre 81 cars have a smaller bore on the booster that doesnt allow the newer aluminum base master. The late 2nd gen F bodies have a bigger bore but its an ugly steel resovoir I don't like.
And confirmation, freaking belltechs. Not sure if I should be happy or mad. They are going to be too low so looks like I gotta swap to the bare spindles I have on the floor. The stock springs are pretty much the right height so 2" drop is going to be SLAMMED.
Beltechs from a salvage yard in IA, wow....
- Status
