BUILD THREAD Do I get a membership card now?
- Thread starter 81cutlass
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Coolant level is slightly low (maybe a quart in the radiator and the reservoir is empty) but I just changed the water pump on Saturday and didn't put that many miles on it before I took it to the track so theres a good chance it just knocked a bubble out, I'm not condemning that yet
I don't own a leak down tester but I think I can put one together with the compression tester I have and some air compressor fittings.
My plan of attack is
1. Tap into the coolant system and put 10psi on the cooling system, see if It holds pressure, if not the head gasket might have popped
2. Put my dial indicator on the intake and exhaust lobes of the cam and see if I have full cam lift, it wouldn't surprise me if I wiped a lobe BUT it seems odd I wiped a lobe at the same time I had that excessive fuel problem
3. build leak down tester and see if I'm good. I am pretty sure there isn't an issue there since it made compression awesome but its a possibility
It would kinda make sense if it popped a head gasket since its burning cool but making some heat, but #4 would be the least likely to pop into a water jacket since there isn't a ton of water next to #4, #2 or #6 for sure, but #4 is the driest.
Also would make sense if it wiped a lobe since the cam was used and I haven't been putting zinc in the oil like I should have. Just odd it would have happened at the same time as this fuel issue.
I think the rotating assembly is solid for the good compression it made and I pulled the PCV off and revved it a bit with the oil fill cap off and there wasn't any noticeable blowby.
EDIT:
My "new" coil might be shot.
I did some reading and anything under 13k ohm is good, new is 11-11.5k ohm. I seem to remember the posts that im getting a cold burn on had 17k ohm and i didn't think anything of it since my old coil pack that was bad was open across two posts. I assumed open meant shot and any ohm reading was OK. I need to dig into that more.
I have some good LS heat sink coils on the shelf, these guys sell a low cost converter box that controls LS coils. This is the 2nd coil ive gotten that has "blown" so Im tempted to ditch it and go with something that's more robust. It will take some wiring but hopefully solve my problem.
https://www.dynamicefi.com/BuickIgnition.php
I don't own a leak down tester but I think I can put one together with the compression tester I have and some air compressor fittings.
My plan of attack is
1. Tap into the coolant system and put 10psi on the cooling system, see if It holds pressure, if not the head gasket might have popped
2. Put my dial indicator on the intake and exhaust lobes of the cam and see if I have full cam lift, it wouldn't surprise me if I wiped a lobe BUT it seems odd I wiped a lobe at the same time I had that excessive fuel problem
3. build leak down tester and see if I'm good. I am pretty sure there isn't an issue there since it made compression awesome but its a possibility
It would kinda make sense if it popped a head gasket since its burning cool but making some heat, but #4 would be the least likely to pop into a water jacket since there isn't a ton of water next to #4, #2 or #6 for sure, but #4 is the driest.
Also would make sense if it wiped a lobe since the cam was used and I haven't been putting zinc in the oil like I should have. Just odd it would have happened at the same time as this fuel issue.
I think the rotating assembly is solid for the good compression it made and I pulled the PCV off and revved it a bit with the oil fill cap off and there wasn't any noticeable blowby.
EDIT:
My "new" coil might be shot.
I did some reading and anything under 13k ohm is good, new is 11-11.5k ohm. I seem to remember the posts that im getting a cold burn on had 17k ohm and i didn't think anything of it since my old coil pack that was bad was open across two posts. I assumed open meant shot and any ohm reading was OK. I need to dig into that more.
I have some good LS heat sink coils on the shelf, these guys sell a low cost converter box that controls LS coils. This is the 2nd coil ive gotten that has "blown" so Im tempted to ditch it and go with something that's more robust. It will take some wiring but hopefully solve my problem.
https://www.dynamicefi.com/BuickIgnition.php
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It looks like the same coil configuration as my Series 2. I found what I deemed to be an insufficient ground to my ICM when I was trouble shooting my VATS issue. The ground to the ICM shared the same 18ga. to a head bolt ring that the O2 sensors were on. It would show a bunch of resistance with both plugged in and would drop in half unplugging 1, then drop to zero with both unplugged. I ran a quasi-dedicated ground (shared 12ga. with the PCM) that helped the voltage to the crank and cam sensors (was 7v- went up to 12 after the ground fix). It's cheap and easy to do; it might help your coil packs last longer.
liquidh8
Comic Book Super Hero
I had went to the series II initially, with the "fast start" conversion. then from there I am using dynamicEFI's CnP system with the Hot LS6 coils. I also rewired the car, so I know the feed and ground for the coils and the module are good. As has been stated, they are notorious for low voltage issues and grounding issues.
If you are interested, here is the posts where I did my CnP.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/81-b...built-and-installed.26071/page-60#post-468648
If you are interested, here is the posts where I did my CnP.
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/81-b...built-and-installed.26071/page-60#post-468648
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Are you happy with the Dynamic EFI coil kit? It sure is priced well ($70) compared to the TR6 kit ($350). It sure looks easy to do and I'm a fan of the better spark they provide.
I will for sure check my grounding. I had short wires and couldn't ground the engine harness to the block so I made a 6" jumper to go from the ground lugs to a hole on the block I could reach. That might be an issue why it blew the coil so fast.
I will for sure check my grounding. I had short wires and couldn't ground the engine harness to the block so I made a 6" jumper to go from the ground lugs to a hole on the block I could reach. That might be an issue why it blew the coil so fast.
liquidh8
Comic Book Super Hero
I have absolutely no complaints, only praise. I also run the ebl sfi-6, so I have substantially better tunability and conrol
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
The TR6 has been plagued with issues since its introduction.
Usually it is the #3 lobes that get wiped, so if #4 went it is a relative anomaly. Try just closing the intake and exhaust valves, pressurize the cylinder, and listen for leakage - you could have a burned exhaust valve.
Usually it is the #3 lobes that get wiped, so if #4 went it is a relative anomaly. Try just closing the intake and exhaust valves, pressurize the cylinder, and listen for leakage - you could have a burned exhaust valve.
liquidh8
Comic Book Super Hero
try a running compression test, its usually about half of normal compression. if too low, its most likely a valve train issue.
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