BUILD THREAD Do I get a membership card now?

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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
I did run a compression test yesterday, 125-135 on all cylinders.

I checked valve lift on #2 intake, #4 intake and exhaust and they were all the same at ~.250" on the push rod

I did the leak down on #4 with the hacked up compression tester blended with a paint regulator, looks really good maybe 5% leakdown

Took it for a test drive again and at idle in park, no miss, idle in gear, pretty hard miss also at idle tip-in from an acceleration, at a light throttle cruise it has a miss and under boost it seems to clear up a bit?

The only thing I can think is the damn coil is shot.

The turbo buick form swears past 13.5k ohm they are shot, i know my coil was 11.5k ohm when I bought it last month, but now its 17.5k ohm. I might just bite the bullet and buy that dynamic EFI LS coil conversion kit and see what that gets me.
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
Random thought-

I don't KNOW if I plugged an injector. I assumed I did since the exhaust smelt of fuel really strong when I pulled into the pits and #4 was really cold when I limped the car home. I changed the injector and cleaned the plug off and the fuel smell went away, but it might have killed the coil near WOT on my last pass causing #4 to flood and never ignite again at idle.

The coil might just have not enough power to spark under high boost and its randomly missing on every cylinder at other times. At WOT it flooded #4 with the high fuel delivery and never dried out when I limped it home the 5 miles from the track.

Just speculation at this time. My coil reads bad, nothing mechanical looks hurt, so fix the broken parts.
 
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Turbo Zach

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 8, 2015
2,534
5,874
113
50130
Holley Sniper for the win! Once you get it sorted it is going to be fun! Old used parts = problems. I would upgrade the coils if it were me.
 

liquidh8

Comic Book Super Hero
Agree, you check the basics to ensure the engine is sound mechanically. You could do the type II coil conversion, may be cheaper? When I first go my lc2, the coil crapped out, the first thing I did was convert it. So much easier to get coils.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
Dynamic coil on plug system is ordered. I gotta do some wiring and build brackets now.
 
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liquidh8

Comic Book Super Hero
Awesome, Iike i said, i really like mine. It's been flawless. Hardest part was mounting the coils so they looked nice.

When I did the wiring, I ran a new 12v feed for the coils through a relay. Bobr (dynamic) sends schematics, and has them on his websit.

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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
I got the brackets for the stock coils modified, I need to get argon for the MIG to weld the tabs on to mount and build a harness and wait for the control module to show up and I'll be back in business.
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
When I was at the salvage yard a few months ago they JUST got a wrecked 2dr jimmy s10 2wd in. When I was there last Friday to grab those rainier fenders I saw it was off the ground without wheels and a nice set of brakes was on it. Actually had a lowering kit. They wouldnt sell the rear backing plates only but they would sell the front spindle and brake assy. $130 out the door, not bad not great.

I was going to do a LS1 setup on the front like my 2+2 since LS1 fits under t type wheels, but this will bolt on much faster. I had those other set of bare spindles but I was going to spend more than $130 getting those back complete since they were missing everything else.

Looks like Blazer setup it is!

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They had a sweet patina and wheels SBSS square body but rusty. 1986 plates so its been off the road for a looong time.
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,645
13,561
113
Western MN
So back to this!

Started with the spaghetti monster
1559616458084.png

And soldered wrapped and conduit-ed
1559616480726.png


And mounted, coils still need to be mounted to the valve covers but its good enough to start
1559616595108.png


Good news, it runs better, started up awesome. Kinda runs OK and doesn't dead misfire.

Bad news, it still misfires under boost. Maybe its the ignition module? It also studders a bit when I roll into it and I can feel a light under cruise misfire. Pops and backfires under boost from time to time over 5psi.

Its 50% better? But still not fixed.

Other odd thing is I shut it off after 3-4 startups and it wont start again. Battery has 13.5 volts but when I turn the key on it goes to like 5 volts measured at the cig lighter. It was fine until I took a 1 mile loop test drive and its like night and day. Seems like the battery has like no deep cycle. Had it on the charger an hour and it still did the same thing. Battery was 9 years old so I swapped to another questionable older battery i had sitting on the floor AND same thing. 13.5 volts when the charger off or on, charger isnt acting like the battery is dead since its only reading 3 amps on the gauge, but I turn the key on and voltage drops. Barely enough amps to even run the fuel pump. Jumps back to 13 volts if the charger is off too.

I'll let it charge over night before I call both batteries shot and blame anything on the ignition since it might have voltage issues. Unless I popped a fusible link? Seems odd it kinda works otherwise if it was a problem.

If its not one thing its another....

I just want to get back to driving the thing.
 
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