Engine Machine Work Prices

[joesregalproject]

Prices seem a bit high but in line with what most places near me charge.

Personally, I think you're thinking too much. The dude said it was a runner and I haven't seen anything so far to cause me to doubt it.
Bottle hone, new rings, gaskets, timing set, paint, haul *ss.

Oh I know I'm thinking too much, it's driving me mad trying to figure out where to stop. Everytime I get to a point that I say "okay enough" someone or something says "well since you're there, might as well... blah blah blah". That's why I went and tried to get some machine shop prices. I thought having the prices might help make the decision easier.

Here is the things that I know I want to do-

TA Cam Bearings (have them)
TA Oil Pump Mods (have them)
TA 212 Camshaft (don't have)
TA Stage One Valve Springs (don't have)

Should I replace the pistons with 10:1 pistons? It'll cost more.
Should I reuse the crank main and rod bearings?
Should I have a valve job done?
Do I really need to mess with the rods?


I want to try and keep things to a minimum, because I'd like to be able to save some of my money for things like a crossmember, tires, exhaust, etc. I also don't want it to run like sh*t either. This machinist seems to me to be really particular (almost OCD) and wants everything done the way he wants it, not necessarily the way I want it, and I'm confused by him as to what I actually need, and what he wants done.

 

[motorheadmike]

Might sound crazy... but, why not find a lightly used Buick 350 with the mods you want already done? Let someone else eat the labour and the 50 cents on the dollar for parts.

 

[TURNA]

2500ish just for a short block.

Have you checked to see if anyone sells a short block like ATK?

I was surprised when one of the guys posted that Jegs sold ATK 403 and 350 Olds LONG blocks for less than the work you listed.

Keep in mind to do all that work and leave the heads/intake stock is a complete WASTE OF TIME and MONEY!!!

 

[melloelky]

hmm,if the guy isn't considering what you want outta this only stroking his ego maybe it's time to check out another place.it can't hurt,it's only fair that he hear$ you out as you are the customer after all.i look @ these things like building a relationship,it's gotta be give and take to make it work for everyone.

 

[paul.m]

I'm looking at my Buick 350 and I'm still not entirely sure how far I want to go with it, but I stopped at a machine shop today and got some prices on stuff to do a bottom end rebuild. This shop has a pretty good reputation, but this sounds on the expensive side to me. Tell me what you think. Not all of this stuff would necessarily need done, but the machinist definitely wanted to do all of it if he was going to assemble the short block.

Mag block- $50
Shot peen block- $125
Bore and Hone- $350
Deck if Needed- $200
R&R Freeze and Pipe Plugs- $50
R&R Cam Bearings- $50
Clean and Polish Crank- $150
Custom Grind Crank- $275
Recon Rods- $200
R&R Pistons and Rods- $150
Oil Pump Setup- $75
Balance Rotating Assembly- $250
Degree Cam- $125
Assemble Short Block- $375

If you were unsure of block condition magnaflux is always a good idea , but if you have had this engine running no need in that , If the block is seasoned and condition known no need for shoot peen , unless you are doing a extreme build 600 + hose power . If the bore and hone are done with torque plates that is about right. The rods , is he just resizing the big end ? I am with the others on here about polishing the crank and then turning it ? IF your going to do one then you dont need the other . The r & r of pistons doesnt sound right , the last time i bought pistons any decent set started around 250 , be careful what your getting there. The balancing doesnt mention is this with balancer and flywheel or flexplate ? Degree cam you could probably do without too. This is a procedure to verify camshaft spec,s crank and cam relationship , Mainly verify T D C . Again if you were doing a high horsepower , expense build then yes you would do that .

 

[joesregalproject]

Also just to clarify, this doesn't include any parts. This is labor only.

 

[64nailhead]

I'm looking at my Buick 350 and I'm still not entirely sure how far I want to go with it, but I stopped at a machine shop today and got some prices on stuff to do a bottom end rebuild. This shop has a pretty good reputation, but this sounds on the expensive side to me. Tell me what you think. Not all of this stuff would necessarily need done, but the machinist definitely wanted to do all of it if he was going to assemble the short block.

Mag block- $50
Shot peen block- $125
Bore and Hone- $350
Deck if Needed- $200
R&R Freeze and Pipe Plugs- $50
R&R Cam Bearings- $50
Clean and Polish Crank- $150
Custom Grind Crank- $275
Recon Rods- $200
R&R Pistons and Rods- $150
Oil Pump Setup- $75
Balance Rotating Assembly- $250
Degree Cam- $125
Assemble Short Block- $375

Also just to clarify, this doesn't include any parts. This is labor only.

FWIW, I live in depressed Upstate NY, which in't that far from Pittsburgh, and these prices are insane - maybe even "crazy Eddie' insane. $350 to bore and hone???? How about $15 a hole from the best shop in town and $10 a hole for a stock rebuild type stuff/shop.

All machining of a block should not exceed $800 including cleaning, cam bearings, line boring, freeze plugs and decking. Ship me the block and I'll get it done for $800 by the local race engine builder.

From reading everyone else's comments, perhaps living a depressed area has its advantages.

 

[DRIVEN]

Bottle hone, new rings, gaskets, timing set, paint, haul *ss.

 

[paul.m]

Oh I know I'm thinking too much, it's driving me mad trying to figure out where to stop. Everytime I get to a point that I say "okay enough" someone or something says "well since you're there, might as well... blah blah blah". That's why I went and tried to get some machine shop prices. I thought having the prices might help make the decision easier.

Here is the things that I know I want to do-

TA Cam Bearings (have them)
TA Oil Pump Mods (have them)
TA 212 Camshaft (don't have)
TA Stage One Valve Springs (don't have)

Should I replace the pistons with 10:1 pistons? It'll cost more.
Should I reuse the crank main and rod bearings?
Should I have a valve job done?
Do I really need to mess with the rods?


I want to try and keep things to a minimum, because I'd like to be able to save some of my money for things like a crossmember, tires, exhaust, etc. I also don't want it to run like sh*t either. This machinist seems to me to be really particular (almost OCD) and wants everything done the way he wants it, not necessarily the way I want it, and I'm confused by him as to what I actually need, and what he wants done.

You can often times BUY more than you can BUILD , Check out locale swap meets and car show /part sales / dragstrip / ect . And if your going to do any kind of rebuild NEVER EVER go cheap on your heads , this is where all the power making potential lies !!!! After market heads at swap meets can be had for 50 cents on the dollar . Have a plan before you start buying parts , know what RPM range you want your engine to work in , or you will end up with a bunch of mismatched parts that wont do what you want them to! BUY the BEST heads you can afford and build your engine around them and you will be happy with the results ! The flow , the cc,s and the valve size will determine everything for you

 

[TURNA]

I know nothing about Buick 350's except they make good boat mooring anchors


But Jegs has a Buick 350 long block for 2k assembled

https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DB08/10002/-1