Know when to say when before you lift the gas cap off and slide a new car under it.
Engine Machine Work Prices
- Thread starter joesregalproject
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Here's where I'm at:
-All for building a Burick! 👍👍👍👍
-Nope, it ain't cheap, but anybody can do an LS or SBC- that's why they're cheap
Looking at your price list- mag not needed, shotpeen is cleanup- don't do it if you can hot-tank, money spent on crank should be to use cheapo, SBC parts (offset grind, etc,). Those costs alone are almost a G, and using stock rods. You could have custom pistons on SBC rods hanging off a stock crank for the same money, with better results, custom tailored to your situation.
Use the force, Luke!
-All for building a Burick! 👍👍👍👍
-Nope, it ain't cheap, but anybody can do an LS or SBC- that's why they're cheap
Looking at your price list- mag not needed, shotpeen is cleanup- don't do it if you can hot-tank, money spent on crank should be to use cheapo, SBC parts (offset grind, etc,). Those costs alone are almost a G, and using stock rods. You could have custom pistons on SBC rods hanging off a stock crank for the same money, with better results, custom tailored to your situation.
Use the force, Luke!
I appreciate all the replies everyone, but I think I'm more confused now. I don't know that I was fully clear on what I want out of this car.
It is a cruise night car. I'm not after huge power or low 1/4 mile numbers. It's not gonna see redline often or even at all. Im not going to be beating on this car, it'll probably acquire 1,000 miles a year. I don't want it to be the slowest car at cruise night, but it's still just going to cruise night and back home. Honestly I want a cam in it for the sound more than anything else, I'd like a nice lopey idle. The other thing I want is for this engine to last. I'm not taking it on any road trips, or relying on it for daily transportation, but I don't want the engine to spin a bearing or smoke or need to be torn down again in a couple years.
The car has been sitting engineless under a cover for three years and I bought this engine so that I could get it up and running over the winter. I drove all the way to Indiana to buy this engine, and I am going to fix this engine, I don't want to buy another. I want to make the car run with this one. According to the guy I bought it from it ran just fine when it was pulled a year or so ago. At first I was just gonna put some new gaskets in it, paint it and run it, now the cam is out of it and I'm minimally replacing cam bearings and the cam and lifters and putting it back together.
Now I understand being skeptical of Craigslist sellers, but I also don't believe everyone is out to get me, and the seller really had no reason to lie to me.
At any rate, I'm not sure if I just want to replace the cam bearings and camshaft and then stop there, or if I want to go farther. I got some thinking to do.
It is a cruise night car. I'm not after huge power or low 1/4 mile numbers. It's not gonna see redline often or even at all. Im not going to be beating on this car, it'll probably acquire 1,000 miles a year. I don't want it to be the slowest car at cruise night, but it's still just going to cruise night and back home. Honestly I want a cam in it for the sound more than anything else, I'd like a nice lopey idle. The other thing I want is for this engine to last. I'm not taking it on any road trips, or relying on it for daily transportation, but I don't want the engine to spin a bearing or smoke or need to be torn down again in a couple years.
The car has been sitting engineless under a cover for three years and I bought this engine so that I could get it up and running over the winter. I drove all the way to Indiana to buy this engine, and I am going to fix this engine, I don't want to buy another. I want to make the car run with this one. According to the guy I bought it from it ran just fine when it was pulled a year or so ago. At first I was just gonna put some new gaskets in it, paint it and run it, now the cam is out of it and I'm minimally replacing cam bearings and the cam and lifters and putting it back together.
Now I understand being skeptical of Craigslist sellers, but I also don't believe everyone is out to get me, and the seller really had no reason to lie to me.
At any rate, I'm not sure if I just want to replace the cam bearings and camshaft and then stop there, or if I want to go farther. I got some thinking to do.
You do have the choice to rip it apart yourself an check things as you go. If everything measures up put it back together with new bearings an gaskets.
As for the cam not tomany guys l know change out the cam bearings unless they look bad. If l remember right you had a thread about that an the majority of guy thought it looked okay.
So with all that said seems simple, rip it apart, new main and crank bearings, maybe oil pump, gaskets, Camshaft and lifters an fire it up. Done on the cheap!! I've done this myself just to check on things.
By the way it's not brain surgery, pretty easy to do.
As for the cam not tomany guys l know change out the cam bearings unless they look bad. If l remember right you had a thread about that an the majority of guy thought it looked okay.
So with all that said seems simple, rip it apart, new main and crank bearings, maybe oil pump, gaskets, Camshaft and lifters an fire it up. Done on the cheap!! I've done this myself just to check on things.
By the way it's not brain surgery, pretty easy to do.
Best thing is just check the specs of the short block as it is. Gauge & inspect the rod & main bearings, check the end play, look for cracks/deep scratches/gouges in the journals. This should give you an idea of how to go forward. If everything is in spec just go with ring & bearing kit, freeze plugs, would suggest cam bearings. Hot tanking would get it clean for rebuilding. When I did my 350 SBC block I had it hot tanked, basic measurements inspection, new cam bearings (came with my engine), freeze plugs, with all the not needed threaded holes pluged, bore ridges cut. It ran me about $150 out the door. Had the cranks (came with an extra crank) checked for like $40. Another $40 to polish the good one. $5 each to check clean the rods/pistons, with #1 costing $25 to resize. This was done at an out of the way machine shop in Indiana county.
And again slow on the keyboard as Bob64 cover part of my response.
I have my Malibu but it is just to much for a cruise car
So I got the Cutlass for "just a cruise car" which is why I kept the 307.......................In the process of looking for a 403 now.
Need more POWER!!!!!!
So I got the Cutlass for "just a cruise car" which is why I kept the 307.......................In the process of looking for a 403 now.
Need more POWER!!!!!!
Bought my 350 at a swap meet for $100.00 - put a re-ring kit in it, big cam, and 2.02 iron heads and beat on it for 7 years.
You can look at your cylinder walls from the bottom - your undoing the rods, new bearings, changing valve springs new seals,
Don't go crazy just freshen it up.
You can look at your cylinder walls from the bottom - your undoing the rods, new bearings, changing valve springs new seals,
Don't go crazy just freshen it up.
Well I pulled the heads off this evening to get an idea of the cylinder condition. They look pretty good to me, I doubt they need to be bored. I think they would be fine with just being honed. There is no lip at all. I attached some pictures.
I'm gonna check out another machine shop on Monday and see what they say. A buddy of mine told me they are pretty good and should be cheaper and more willing to work with me. He also referred to the machinist I talked to today as "a ****ing *******", so maybe I'm just talking to the wrong shop.
I'll tell this other shop I want a hone and re-ring, new crank, rod and cam bearings and put it back together. Do the whatever the minimum is to get that done.
I already have new head bolts, a new timing set, the oil pump rebuild stuff, the cam bearings and a full gasket set. I will provide the TA212 cam and lifters. I'll let the machine shop provide the rest. I think I'd feel pretty good with that.
I'm gonna check out another machine shop on Monday and see what they say. A buddy of mine told me they are pretty good and should be cheaper and more willing to work with me. He also referred to the machinist I talked to today as "a ****ing *******", so maybe I'm just talking to the wrong shop.
I'll tell this other shop I want a hone and re-ring, new crank, rod and cam bearings and put it back together. Do the whatever the minimum is to get that done.
I already have new head bolts, a new timing set, the oil pump rebuild stuff, the cam bearings and a full gasket set. I will provide the TA212 cam and lifters. I'll let the machine shop provide the rest. I think I'd feel pretty good with that.
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