Like that brown wire off the back of the alternator? I've heard it done that way. Could I run a wire from the field terminal on the alternator instead of splicing into the brown wire?
Factory Oil Pressure Switch... two prong?
- Thread starter MrSony
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One of the terminals on the alternator only has power when it's spinning right? Aka engine running?
Or have all my questions been for nothing and I should just do it as the diagram suggests, minus the green wire since I have a 2 prong?
check the brown wire at the switch, there should be no power to that wire with the key in the off position. It should only have power when in run so you should be able to splice the brown and blue wire together to bypass the switch
What about teeing back into the factory wire? The brown one in the upper right. I still have the wires coming out of the cabin, they were just cut. Brown wire goes from the fuse panel, to the sender, then the blue wire (or whatever wire I choose) goes to the choke. That seem right? My car was a 3.8 v6 before.
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Ok, this is what's happenin now. I have the sender tee'd into a fitting along with my oil pressure line in the front of the block (like a 231), according to my manuals and stuff online, the brown wire coming out of the harness in the firewall near the brake booster is the wire that originally went to the sender. I have that hooked onto one prong and a wire going from the other prong to the choke. The choke/oil light is on steady, and goes off when I unplug the choke. The choke is not opening fully, as if the coil is bad, as if it's not even hooked up. What could be the issue? I have 25psi hot at idle, steadilly rising to 50+ at 5,000rpm. Any input is appreciated. It's gotta be something simple.
Hooked the choke coil directly up to the battery, left it for an hour, nothing happened. Leads me to believe the choke coil is bad. Ordered a new one. Also, the switch is a "normally open" switch, so I bought the right one. It closes with oil pressure (above 4psi) and completes the circuit allowing the choke to work. Or at least it will. Hopefully.
Sounds like the choke coil is grounded. Take the choke coil off and make sure the coil is not touching the ground. Don't be so quick to order a new one cause the choke coil is simple to figure out if there is a problem. Plus if you have build lots of quadrajets don't you have a spare parts box from quadrajets that were busted beyond repair?
I dug into my wire diagrams & noticed one thing a Buick has different from the Chevy & Pontiac referances, it will have to do with factory oil gauge. There is a choke heater control relay used on the LC8 & LD5 231 using an oil gauge. If your Regal has the oil gauge you might want tolook thru your discards from the original engine. It used 4 wires into a three wire plug: the 250 brown/fused choke, 25 brown & white/alternator to warning light, then 78 light blue/choke heater & 931 green & white/choke light sharing the same pigtail location. I beleive the relay grounds thru its body to where it mounts. The basic light would be simular to the diagram from Malibu Racing you posted earlier. Have you checked the wires in the harness for nicks, cuts, breaks, or corrosion?
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