already happenin. Runs in my family. I think CRS is beginning to be contagious as well as hereditary. 😕
Factory Oil Pressure Switch... two prong?
- Thread starter MrSony
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I got a new choke coil. Nothin. Choke still stays shut (or won't open fully, rather) and the choke/oil light is still on. I guess I have a bad sender then. It's a BWD S380 two prong, normally open, closes with 4psi. I have 50psi of oil pressure cold at idle, and the light is still on. I did test the sender (bench test) and it read infinite resistance, indicating it's normally open.
I pulled the under dash panel, looked at the fuse in the C/H spot, and the fuse is good. Got 12v there with the key in run. The only thing it could possibly be is a bad switch, which irritates me. You pay good money for a part and it ends up being a pos. It was only 8 bucks, but man that's annoying. And I have to buy the dumbass socket too because it's right behind the radiator hose and I am not going to drain the damn coolant every time I want to mess with that stupid *ss sender.
I pulled the under dash panel, looked at the fuse in the C/H spot, and the fuse is good. Got 12v there with the key in run. The only thing it could possibly be is a bad switch, which irritates me. You pay good money for a part and it ends up being a pos. It was only 8 bucks, but man that's annoying. And I have to buy the dumbass socket too because it's right behind the radiator hose and I am not going to drain the damn coolant every time I want to mess with that stupid *ss sender.
How is the sender grounded, is it mounted at the oil port (hard brass T/block/elbow) or remote mounted feed by a soft copper line? I tried the soft copper remote & had signal issues. Made a brass hardware set up & it was working right. I was doing this to put both warning light & gauge senders out the same port. Can't hurt to try & its a cheap fix if it works.
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