Finally Doing A Build Thread

[gbodyaddict]

so i was bored this morning, and I don't have photoshop so this is my MS paint rendition, this is just an idea, i've been doing alot of thinking as to what kind of finish i want, i know the look i'm goin for, i really love the Project Supernova car. I still don't know if I wanna go with the flat like i had intended, but then agian i do, but then I don't know how well the chrome bumpers and rocker trim will look with the flat color, so i do it like the pic, i'll have to take them off. *note the tires are suppose to represent my Indy 500's lol, i had white walls and body color rallys on in this pic

salon style headlight bezels, will have HID headlights by then, powdercoated front and back bumpers look so mean with the amber parking lights. and the black, notic i'm not following the body line, but the fender line and I don't know how i would go about doing the roof and back so any ideas would be helpfull. and also the mirror pods black keep in mind all satin no gloss. maybe for a lil detal, paint the back of the yellow lens on the sidemarkers amber, then clearing the top, and tinting my tailights black, and for the reverse lights, i have no clue what to do with them. if i don't go any further with the black and just keep it up front, i was thinking of doing the bac of the trunklid satin, like 79 Hurst Olds style

so badass! but see the color is gloss and the black is satin, my color combo would be satin/satin

another one with body color bumpers and the two tone follwing the bodylines, everyone does that tho, so I'm staying away from it an this time i followed the top of the headlight bezels and grille with the black up front

the guy who tuned my carb let me borrow his K&N, he seen my cheap mr.gasket one and said "i thought you were getting a new one" lol, so I have mine on order, and he said in return just to clean and recharge it for him, and i thought that was a good deal. makes the motor look all business

I love the black rally RWL tires on a gbody look....Im shootin for the same but might do the whole car black.....oh yeah your car is clean.

 

[350_85cutty]

quarter to roof seam, took out all the factory body filler, no rust suprisingly. I used All Metal filler first, then finished with Rage Gold, i did the same with the rot spot, i used Muriatic acid to treat the area first and clean the rust out the lil pits the wire wheel and brush couldn't reach, then all metal, and filler. *note: I got all the paint out the seam and got it to bare metal using 60 grit sandpaper got in all the nooks and crannys. i also used a 3M scotch brite wheel attachment in a cordless drill which worked good also.

well it's suppose to rain friday, so I went ahead and sprayed some epoxy primer. It's a DTM epoxy primer/seal, that i got from Kustom Shop, (tcpglobal.com) it calls for a activator, and is a 2:1 mix if using as a primer surfacer, and to use it as a sealer, it calls for a 2:1:1 the other 1 is for a reducer, i had no same brand reducer, just some NASON that I didn't know if it was compliant or not and didn't want to chance it. i wanted to use it as a sealer, i was scared the filler would bleed thru and it did

here you can see the body is straight, but the featheredge spots bled thru also!!!!! i had two lil high spots on the quater that i just hammered down slightly with a ball peen hammer and filled and they went away nicely.

here you can see the spot next to the quater window where the filler bled thru bad....vinyl top owners beware if your doing away with the top, this spot required some filler to build up a dip in the factory sheetmetal and alot of blocking to get right. I did not know that flaw was there until i get into it and starting feeling with my hand that it dipped. I put a paint stick to it and it needed about a 1/8 of filler built up! the seam also needed some build and some blocking to get right. the rot area on the B-pillar also filled and blocked out nicely. as for the the lil studs, a vice grip does work...thanks blake442 they twisted off nicely and left no holes, just grinded the lil divits they left afterwards down and then filled and blocked.

don't know why the bleed thru occured any ideas why this happened? I used Wax Grease Remover everytime to clean everything

 

[350_85cutty]

thank you gbodyaddict, glad you dig my olds!

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

The filler SHOULD bleed through the primer a bit, if you mean you can see the edges. That is why you use a primer-surfacer. Once it sets up for a day or two, you will need to mist a coat of contrasting color spray paint ( white) on the primer, then block it out. I probably went through 2 gallons of primer-surfacer on my car to get it right. Make sure the surface is sanded in 220 grit before your first primer application too! Your initial blocking of the primer should be done with 220 grit as you are going to prime it again. The last blocking should be done with 400 grit, then you will want to hand sand the whole car with a 3M No 20 soft sanding block wrapped in 600 grit. The 600 is very fine and will help you take down the last of your sand scratches so that they will not bleed through the final paint. I did my car twice in 600 at the end, and it has no sand scratch bleed through. This was my first time doing final prep in 600, and I will do it this way from now on. All of my previous paint jobs always had some bleed through, this one does not. Oh, one final thing: give the car a week or two to fully cure when you are ready to do the final sanding. This is to allow proper time for shrinkage and minimize bleed through in the final paint.

PS: I was thinking about it, and wonder if you used enough primer. Primer surfacer is a filler material that is sprayed on the car to get the final blending right. Remember: Just because you are in primer doesn't mean you are done sanding! My car, for example, probably took 200-300 hours of block sanding the primer to get it right. That does not include filler rough in, just the primer! Also, wax and silicone remover is used to avoid fisheyes, not to promote coverage. I rarely ever use it with primer unless the car is really dirty.

 

[Blake442]

He's right, being able to see your filled spots through the primer after your first coat is normal. The primer lays out differently on top of metal vs. body filler. Once you sand it out and re-prime it, as long as you don't sand through your first coat, it will be more uniform the second time around.

Lookin pretty good, glad you got your spot on your roof all squared away, and that your trim studs came off with ease.

 

[350_85cutty]

to keep the chrome or not? i can't decide

 

[78mali350]

I would say strip it.....but i do not like chrome, so that is kinda a biased answer. haha

 

[Blake442]

Since you're planning on a matte finish, I'd say get rid of it.
The contrast between flat paint and bright work doesn't really go together in my book.
If you were going for a regular base/clear paint job, I'd say leave it on.

 

[kdizzle50]

nice

Cars looking good !! keep up the good work !! can't wait to see the final outcome.. I'm looking to do something like this with my cutlass too!

 

[350_85cutty]

just to prove i'm not a stranger to spraying some paint, after all i do it at my job painting signs so I have some experience shooting a gun heres some pics of the company truck i painted awhile ago. It was a quick job, probably like a week, very minimal, well more like no bodywork, basically just sanded and featheredge spots, these trucks were notorious for shitty factory paint jobs, shot some primer sealer and then paint

the good ol' shop truck, we are all suprised it's lasted this long, it gets more abuse than a rihanna and chris brown relationship

primer sealer

not to bad for my first vehicle paint job, it's not perfect but then agian it's a shop truck and it's gonna get beat up looks way better than it did. oh and the reason for the colors it's the company colors and the paintjob matches our 2 crane trucks

fancy huh lol i'm being sarcastic, just wanted to throw a lil stripe in there to an otherwise plain 2 tone paint job

they guy at work built this roof rack it's pretty sweet