Frame Paint?

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I stripped the frame all the way down to metal with wire wheels etc.
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to address oxidation patches I couldn't get to. This also acts as a primer for the bare metal.
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black

Its only about a month old so I have no info on longevity.
 

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Honestly, as someone who has spent a lot of money on products like POR-15 and SEM Rust Trap, I've been equally as satisfied with brush on black Rustoleum. IMO the satin black looks great. Put it over rusty metal primer and it holds up very well and its easy to touch up.

IMO powdercoat is the ultimate frame coating but unless you are taking it to a bare frame, its not really an option.

I vote Rustoleum for frames.

For your wheel wells and other underbody sheet metal, U-Pol Gravitex or Raptor Liner. Inexpensive, looks fantastic, easy to apply and touch up, and good quality. It's what I'll be using on my car.

Is the brush on any more durable than the rattle can? I used the zinc rich primer and satin black rattle can on the frame of my 1500 but it's coming off here and there. I took mine down to shiny metal before cleaning and priming/painting. If the Eastwood stuff is a 2 part that's probably what I'll use next. I've also used Sherwin Williams direct to metal and it has trouble sticking too.
 
I stripped the frame all the way down to metal with wire wheels etc.
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator to address oxidation patches I couldn't get to. This also acts as a primer for the bare metal.
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black

Its only about a month old so I have no info on longevity.
About how much do you need?
 
Is the brush on any more durable than the rattle can? I used the zinc rich primer and satin black rattle can on the frame of my 1500 but it's coming off here and there. I took mine down to shiny metal before cleaning and priming/painting. If the Eastwood stuff is a 2 part that's probably what I'll use next. I've also used Sherwin Williams direct to metal and it has trouble sticking too.

In my own experience, the brush on stuff has been more durable. It is definitely thicker and it just seems to stick better. I think the stuff in the rattle cans gets thinned down so much to make it sprayable it just doesn't hold up as well.

If the Eastwood's stuff is a 2K product, it's probably pretty good, though I don't have any experience with it.

Edit- just looked at the Eastwoods stuff, at $25 per can for a rattle can I'd invest in a half decent spray gun. I can buy an entire gallon of Transtar 7011 Factory Pack Black for about $80. It mixes 1:1 and the reducer is only about $35 a gallon. I put a tiny bit of activator in it too but I don't think you have to. I'll check the TDS.

$25 a can is insane.
 
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In my own experience, the brush on stuff has been more durable. It is definitely thicker and it just seems to stick better. I think the stuff in the rattle cans gets thinned down so much to make it sprayable it just doesn't hold up as well.

If the Eastwood's stuff is a 2K product, it's probably pretty good, though I don't have any experience with it.

Edit- just looked at the Eastwoods stuff, at $25 per can for a rattle can I'd invest in a half decent spray gun. I can buy an entire gallon of Transtar 7011 Factory Pack Black for about $80. It mixes 1:1 and the reducer is only about $35 a gallon. I put a tiny bit of activator in it too but I don't think you have to. I'll check the TDS.

$25 a can is insane.
You're right, it is pretty pricey.
I bought the material after putting in the work to clean the front of the frame.

After grinding on the frame for so long, the thought of saving $20 on material became less important.
With that, it is expensive all things considered.
 

This is what I used. Very durable and will go on new or rusted metal.
 
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This is what I used. Very durable and will go on new or rusted metal.

I like the look of this stuff!
It seems like it would hid a lot of the imperfections you often see on frames.
 
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