Front 2" lowering springs
- Thread starter 83reeeegal
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 2 inch lowering springs regal
- Status
^If you do ball joints, consider getting a shorter pair of upper A-arms. Otherwise youʻll just need a lot more camber shims than before. I use "tall spindle" uppers from Spohn with offset cross shafts.
For what itʻs worth, I used to run drop spindles and had no problems with them. Now I use Eibach Pro-kit springs with 1/2" taller ball joints. (A tall lower ball joint also adds some drop.)
For what itʻs worth, I used to run drop spindles and had no problems with them. Now I use Eibach Pro-kit springs with 1/2" taller ball joints. (A tall lower ball joint also adds some drop.)
I don't know about you guys, but I was not pleased with my cut spring experience. I did it right with a cut off wheel, and it looked good (79T/A). However, after about 3 days, it was on the bump stops. The only thing I could think was that the spring heated itself up faster causing it to get soft and drop. I don't know; I just didn't like it. I only cut a half coil off. I explore other options these days. So far, I'm happy with 5662s and the Belltech 2" drop Blazer spindles.
Something to think about....
Drop springs are dropped from the OE ride height as specified by GM. It is very likely that your car is already lower than the OE spec, just from age and wear. I have read many accounts of people installing drop springs that did not really get very much drop from where the car was before the spring swap, due to springs that had sagged from age.
Drop springs are dropped from the OE ride height as specified by GM. It is very likely that your car is already lower than the OE spec, just from age and wear. I have read many accounts of people installing drop springs that did not really get very much drop from where the car was before the spring swap, due to springs that had sagged from age.
on thing I don't see mentioned when using tall lower ball joints is the lip of the lower control arm sits in the void between the hub and disk plate. When the spindle is raised with a tall lower joint the lip on my lower control arm was jammed against the disk plate. With the car up in the air and the front suspension was fully extended the lower control arm lip moves away from the disk plate so I didn't realize the issue till I had the car on the ground. I used my favorite tool to "modify" the shape of the lip... I have the F body spindle and F body disks so maybe with the G body set up you don't have the problem I had.
That is correct. Here is a pic of my Cutlass with all new poly body bushings, BMR rear arms with poly, BMR front upper A arms with poly and stock lowers with new rubber bushings. I'm running Hotchkis 1" drop springs but it looks to be sitting at factory ride height. I'm assuming it appears that way due to replacing the worn out body bushings which essentially raised the body up some.
Once it nears completion I will see how it looks with the 17's.
i went through this with my Cutlass wagon a couple years ago - (new springs and spindle drop) the 2" spindle drop was too much (for me), the tires hit the fender lip while turning. i put the stock spindles back in, but with the OLD original springs cut. i measured the overall height of the OLD stock springs then cut 1/2" (one half the 1" drop i wanted) off that height. combined with 30yr old springs the 1/2" cut gave me a 1" drop and was now just right. the high point of the wheel opening is now about 1/2" below the height of the tire.
- Status
Similar threads
