gas mileage

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Okay, I have an Edelbrock 625 (I think that's a 1406) on my gas Olds 350. It got 16/20 mpg with my 2004R in the 80 Cutlass.

Your fast idle cam should be controlled by the choke linkage, indirectly. Until I had the choke adjusted properly, I used to have to rev it quick to get it to drop down as well. Since you are having this problem all the time, you need to just loosen your three screws and move the choke back a little and try it again. Your choke could be slightly on all the time; that would help suck a lot more gas all the time as well.
 
KrisW said:
Okay, I have an Edelbrock 625 (I think that's a 1406) on my gas Olds 350. It got 16/20 mpg with my 2004R in the 80 Cutlass.

Your fast idle cam should be controlled by the choke linkage, indirectly. Until I had the choke adjusted properly, I used to have to rev it quick to get it to drop down as well. Since you are having this problem all the time, you need to just loosen your three screws and move the choke back a little and try it again. Your choke could be slightly on all the time; that would help suck a lot more gas all the time as well.

thank you. I am gonna try this next time i go out there. Its definitely past the point of being able to quickly rev and get it to drop down cause i used to be able to do that on my old quadrajet but it doesnt seem to work on this one. I'll lean it out a little (i think thats leaning it)
 
No, that's not leaning it out. That's adjusting the choke!

After you get the choke fixed, you lean it out. Remember those two screws in the front at the bottom? Turn them both in until they bottom out and then turn them each out 3 1/2 turns. Start the car, and then turn each screw back in 1/4 turn at a time until the engine stumbles, then back it out 1/8 turn. That's the best shade tree way to set an AFB(now edelbrock) for mileage. For power it's the opposite, you adjust the screws out until they stumble and then in 1/8 turn.

For mileage it's best to use a vacuum gauge. Hook the gauge to the intake, disconnect your vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the port on the carb, and then set the carb and timing with the highest vacuum reading. You will constantly go back and forth with setting the carb and then the timing, but it will be as mileage friendly as possible after that.
 
KrisW said:
No, that's not leaning it out. That's adjusting the choke!

After you get the choke fixed, you lean it out. Remember those two screws in the front at the bottom? Turn them both in until they bottom out and then turn them each out 3 1/2 turns. Start the car, and then turn each screw back in 1/4 turn at a time until the engine stumbles, then back it out 1/8 turn. That's the best shade tree way to set an AFB(now edelbrock) for mileage. For power it's the opposite, you adjust the screws out until they stumble and then in 1/8 turn.

For mileage it's best to use a vacuum gauge. Hook the gauge to the intake, disconnect your vacuum advance from the distributor and plug the port on the carb, and then set the carb and timing with the highest vacuum reading. You will constantly go back and forth with setting the carb and then the timing, but it will be as mileage friendly as possible after that.

well on the choke it reads "lean" and has an arrow pointing.

I will tune the car like your saying, as i've been meaning to, but I need to first get a tachometer so I can see that the car is idling at the right speed to set the initial timing properly. actually its going to change as I mess with the timing anyway huh. damnit....where is the starting point.
 
You start by setting the base timing and idle speed to stock specs.

After that, you will set your tune with a vacuum gauge and your idle speed will be a little high. Set it back to stock and then start your mileage calculator!
 
KrisW said:
You start by setting the base timing and idle speed to stock specs.

After that, you will set your tune with a vacuum gauge and your idle speed will be a little high. Set it back to stock and then start your mileage calculator!

okay but lets say i bring the idle speed down to 800 (i dont have a tach remember but just figuratively speaking) and the timing ends up being retarded or advanced, so i make the adjustment to bring it within spec but then it raises or lowers the idle out of spec. Then I'd go to readjust the idle and set off the timing again...wouldnt it be a never ending cycle? Or is that not possible unless like 85brougham suggested my crank pulled came loose from the inertia ring or somethin' like that which would make my timing mark incorrect on the crank pulley.
 
the change created by adjusting the timing or mix or speed will be smaller and smaller as you go. you will probably onloy make the adjustments 3 times, maybe only 2 and the 2/3rd times will be tweaking.
 
Exactly right. After a few times, you'll be done.

The only time it didn't work for me was when I had a stretched out timing chain; it kept throwing off the speeds and vacuum over and over. So, if you keep getting your settings thrown off, it's time to check your balancer and timing set.
 
i doubt that the balancer slipped, they clunk constantly after they do that and the timing would be way off and would keep the car from running at all normal. but just in case, mark where the #1 cyl plug is in relation to the intake, pop the dist.cap off and turn the engine till the rotor points to a little before the #1 cylinder. now use a thin, stiff piece of wire and feel for the piston top, turn the engine SLOWLY by hand and feel for when the piston stops rising. you're now at TDC on the compression stroke and the timing marks should be at 0* or so. you do want to be carefull when doing this of course, don't scratch anything with the wire (especially if you have hypereutectic or aluminum pistons, stock don't worry) and make sure that it doesn't get bound up in the cylinder.
 
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