I set up a good number of Suzuki gears when installing lockers. I always used copper paste whe I ran out of compound.
Gear Pattern.... yay or nay??
- Thread starter Bullett801
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I set up a good number of Suzuki gears when installing lockers. I always used copper paste whe I ran out of compound.
I told him they used to use "red lead". What is that and where can you get it? All I have ever used was the yellow stuff that comes with the shim kit.
Prussian Blue can be had most everywhere , Napa anyway.
Sounds like some of you are still looking for the miracle in the Miracle Whip - good luck.
Sounds like some of you are still looking for the miracle in the Miracle Whip - good luck.
Is this any better for you fellas? I took a lot of the pant off and mixed with some cleaner and was able to get it to show the Pattern on bare metal......
You need to brake clean all of the old gunk off and recheck. The brake clean won't hurt a thing if you have an air nozzle to dry it off with. The pattern still looks toe loaded, but I can't tell if it's that the pinion needs to deeper or if the ring needs to be moved because of the unclear pattern.
Also, don't worry about the coast side (concave side) until you get the drive side dead (convex side)on.
Also, don't worry about the coast side (concave side) until you get the drive side dead (convex side)on.
How these pics guys? Better I hope. I can see it is heavy on the toe side. So increase back lash I think. I increased it already from the last pics. It's at .010 now, and GM manual spec is .005-.008 or maybe a thinner pinion shim?
Yes to the thinner pinion shim - a bunch. At least .004 thinner and see how it goes from there.
I'll give a brief (yeah right) description of how I setup a set of gears.
1st - determine how much shim is needed on the carrier for zero side to side movement. This is most easily done by setting it up a minor bit loose, say .002-.004", and then adding the exact amount of the looseness and confirming that you have zero end play when that number is installed. And you want zero to -.001 of end play. No more, no less. Measuring the factory shims that came out is usually right where you need to be if using a good set of new races and bearings. Once you know this, then take out .002 to .004" so that the carrier goes in and out easily when checking the pattern - I prefer .002"
2nd - make a setup bearing for the inner pinion bearing - SAME brand as the final brand of bearing you'll be using. If you don't know how to make this bearing fit properly, then say so.
3rd - find the original pinion shim and measure it. Don't trust a number on it, make sure you know the exact dimension of it.
4th - get a pad and make a column for pinion shim, gear lash, left carrier shim, right carrier shim, and result.
Trial and error time :
5th - install the original pinion shim with the setup bearing and original carrier bearing shims (if close to zero side play) and check.
6th-20th - lather rinse repeat until the drive side is perfect. If the coast side is terrible when the drive side is perfect, then move the pinion .001 in one direction and adjust the gear lash according until the coast side is OK.
7th-21st - install the correct carrier shims for zero to -.001" end play and recheck - this needs to be spot on as this is the last chance at adjusting the pinion.
8th-22nd - install the final inner pinion bearing and slap it all together and look at it crosseyed once or twice, then recheck the pattern. It'll be great.
Do not get tangled up in super tight backlash, .012" is fine and anything closer than .008" is risking making a whiner in the back seat. The drive side pattern is of ultimate importance, unless you plan to drive in reverse most of the time. Lastly and most importantly, patience is a virtue with this. I've put them together with perfect patterns on both sides on the 1st whack (rarely), but it happens. I've also had them take 20+ 'apart and back together' before I felt OK. Make sure the ring gear is seated completely and correctly as well. Good luck - Jim.
I'll give a brief (yeah right) description of how I setup a set of gears.
1st - determine how much shim is needed on the carrier for zero side to side movement. This is most easily done by setting it up a minor bit loose, say .002-.004", and then adding the exact amount of the looseness and confirming that you have zero end play when that number is installed. And you want zero to -.001 of end play. No more, no less. Measuring the factory shims that came out is usually right where you need to be if using a good set of new races and bearings. Once you know this, then take out .002 to .004" so that the carrier goes in and out easily when checking the pattern - I prefer .002"
2nd - make a setup bearing for the inner pinion bearing - SAME brand as the final brand of bearing you'll be using. If you don't know how to make this bearing fit properly, then say so.
3rd - find the original pinion shim and measure it. Don't trust a number on it, make sure you know the exact dimension of it.
4th - get a pad and make a column for pinion shim, gear lash, left carrier shim, right carrier shim, and result.
Trial and error time :
5th - install the original pinion shim with the setup bearing and original carrier bearing shims (if close to zero side play) and check.
6th-20th - lather rinse repeat until the drive side is perfect. If the coast side is terrible when the drive side is perfect, then move the pinion .001 in one direction and adjust the gear lash according until the coast side is OK.
7th-21st - install the correct carrier shims for zero to -.001" end play and recheck - this needs to be spot on as this is the last chance at adjusting the pinion.
8th-22nd - install the final inner pinion bearing and slap it all together and look at it crosseyed once or twice, then recheck the pattern. It'll be great.
Do not get tangled up in super tight backlash, .012" is fine and anything closer than .008" is risking making a whiner in the back seat. The drive side pattern is of ultimate importance, unless you plan to drive in reverse most of the time. Lastly and most importantly, patience is a virtue with this. I've put them together with perfect patterns on both sides on the 1st whack (rarely), but it happens. I've also had them take 20+ 'apart and back together' before I felt OK. Make sure the ring gear is seated completely and correctly as well. Good luck - Jim.
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