BUILD THREAD GP403's sort-of-build thread

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Chris,
Good luck with the engine refresh program. Hope things continue to go smoothly for you.
we're all rooting for you. 🙂
 
I was supposed to get more done this past weekend, but I had to fit in a 10-hour round trip to Texas to pick up an 85 yr old radio :banana: , in between "hey (the in-laws) are going to move this weekend!" So I had to pick up the u-haul Fri night, run to TX and back Saturday morning, go help move Saturday night AND Sunday, and blah cluster.

I do have a nice stack of shiny new $$ parts and more on the way. Clutch kit, starter, water pump, intake, water neck, distributor, mounts, senders, belts, (CRAP I didn't order hoses 😡 ) So there's that. I figure I get this thing buttoned up, put all the brackets and stuff back on before it goes in to make sure I haven't lost any pieces in the past couple years. Need to remember where everything goes, too.

SNAP I gotta make a post on the Roadkill event yet. That was way cool.
 
If your popping off the Saginaws tail shaft to fix a leak, you might put in a new bushing for the driveshaft yoke. Mine was pretty sloppy with the yoke in it. I bought a Saginaw seal and gasket kit from ebay and it came with the bushing. If you have not ever removed a tail shaft from a Saginaw, remove the bolts and rotate the tail shaft so the rubber transmission mount is on the same side as the side cover on the main case. There's a notch and a clip you must expand to pull it off. Mine was leaking everywhere. My speedometer gear was worn down where the seal rides. Had to buy a new gear and seal. I got the new gear off ebay. The listing said GM but it was aftermarket. It had a raised casting line that I had to sand smooth so it would not ruin the new seal. Had trouble at my local parts store finding the new speedo seal. Here is a Pioneer part number #759024. The seal kit from ebay had the new O-ring for the speedo gear housing. What part of NE Okla you at? I'm in Claremore. Sorry to write a book on your thread but just trying to help.
 
Ugh, If I mess with the trans it'll be after its all together and running before I drop it again...

I'm in Claremore.

SMALL WORLD. I'm just down the road by Inola. You going to the "Salina burnout" this weekend?
 
Not going to make it. I'm pushing hard on my Salon. Definitely want to meet up with you sometime though
definitely. if you need a hand or something, drop me a line.
 
so I got a low-range torque wrench and some gasgacinch to finally get back on track on the Pontiac. Yay, Edelbrock manifold is installed. I figure hey I should get these valve covers put on, but first I should actually pop these rocker arm bolts out and re-torque them proper-like. Probably a good idea as they felt tight. Went to torque them back down and the 4th one doesn't click the wrench like the rest, hmm, maybe I should stop turni---^snap^ ...yup broke it. Broke waaaay too easily..... So I'm going to just replace the lot of them in case I f*cked em all up or they're just old and toasted.

Here's the problem I'm finding though. Search the internet for "Oldsmobile rocker arm bolts" and you'll go down a rabbit hole of studs and totally unrelated crap that you probably don't want. Apparently you can't just get them like that, or I'm looking in the wrong places.

I looked in my Pontiac parts book and found they're spec'd at 5/16"-18 and 1 3/8" long. I found a Jeep(!) rocker arm bolt with the exact specs, Crown J8120512. I'll compare the pics in the morning to see if it'll do the trick.

It figures. Get started again and something happens. This car has always been like this. ah well. Engine looks about 17% more respectable now anyway.

If anyone has any useful info on replacements, if those Crown bolts will work or not, I'm all ears.
 
I'm starting to think that your GP and mine are kindred souls.... fix one thing, and something else gives, or the simplest task becomes the biggest nightmare....
 
Have you tried ARP for bolts they make pretty much everything but going by dimensions is better than by application sometimes considering I have main studs with stand offs for a 460 Ford in my BBC Merlin Race block.
 
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Surprised you broke the bolt, usually the aluminum bridges break if anything. You can buy replacement rocker arms, bridges and bolts as a set. I have replaced a few rocker arms lately due to wear. I got a bunch of factory and the steel aftermarket bridges with spacers and pushrods when I bought a used Performer cam off eBay. I would have looked at the timing chain if it had never been done, although the mid 70's plastic coated cam gears don't crack and go into the oil pump pick up like the early ones. Yeah those T-50 trans were cool but had a 205 ft/lb rating, even the 260 was maxing it out. Here is a good article about them.https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sour...ggeMAE&usg=AFQjCNGx1ARTQJHbhluEE83gkWkiQbHuyA
 
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