HAFRODs 78 Aeroback Salon build

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Getting ready to install my dash. I got this big black with orange stripe wire that I cannot remember where it connects. I think the small red connector goes to the BATT port in the fuse box but where does the big connector go? I thought that it may go in the 2nd pics junction block since I don't know where it gets its power from??????

 
Made some real good headway today. The 4 speed Z bar, pedal rod, and pedal had to be welded up and redrilled to size. The parts were just too sloppy from wear. The rod ends were a challenge. I added weld to them then filed them back round. Turned out real nice. I took apart the pedal assembly and blasted all the parts. Everything got painted and lubed. Put on my new pedal pads and now the pedal assembly looks brand new. I got my heat/ac box installed then moved inside the car. I installed the vent/defrost duct and center dash brace and bolted in the dash. Its starting to look like a car again.

 
I decided to NOT use the "Oldsmobile" stencil on the air cleaner lid. Still going to use the "442" though. Don't want the valve covers to say Chevrolet and the lid to read Oldsmobile. Bad enough to be a Chevy 442 😕
 
I just tried painting my reman brake booster for the 5th time and it fish eyed again. I have wiped it with laquer thinner, reducer, and Sem Solve. Must be some good oil they use to keep them from rusting. This reman unit is horrible. It has a dent, a few gouges, and has deep pitting. No worries though cause I just bought a brand new one on ebay that's gold cad plated. It was more expensive than a reman but I'm sick of this redo, redo, redo crap
 
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Just got back from my local U-Pull it yard and grabbed some vinyl vacuum hose from under the dash of an Olds 4 door that's still nice and soft. I got gray and purple. Mine are dry rotted outside the heat/ac box. Will splice them in. Wanting them to appear original. Where do the gray and purple go on a 305 equipped Olds guys? If I'm remembering right, the gray goes to the heater valve??? The purple is a mystery though. Lol
 
I had a pretty big project on my steering columns. It had a no tilt and I got a tilt from a floor shift auto. There is still a mechanical linkage arm just in front of the steering shaft. I cut it off and dressed it with a die grinder. I then used a 1/2 section of muffler pipe for a cover and tacked it underneath (kinda tricky). So it looks like a cover that could be stock. Also the lower shaft turns just like a column shift. I removed the neutral safety switch and made an L bracket that holds it. I welded it on the tube. Its not visible. The neutral safety on a manual is on the clutch pedal.
 
You probably figured it out already, but, yes, that fat wire goes to the accessory block. More loaded Buick and Olds had power everything and this is where everything branched, thus the 8 gauge wire.

I did the same thing to my first set of pedals and rods. Now I need to do the door hinges on my Bravada. They are well-boogered, but I have to take the whole door apart to get it off the car to weld the bushing hole back round again. Forget 'what I hate about G-bodies' - GM cut the thickness of the sheetmetal in their later model door hinges in half, and spot-welded them to body. You can't remove them one at a time and fix them off the car.
 
You probably figured it out already, but, yes, that fat wire goes to the accessory block. More loaded Buick and Olds had power everything and this is where everything branched, thus the 8 gauge wire.

I did the same thing to my first set of pedals and rods. Now I need to do the door hinges on my Bravada. They are well-boogered, but I have to take the whole door apart to get it off the car to weld the bushing hole back round again. Forget 'what I hate about G-bodies' - GM cut the thickness of the sheetmetal in their later model door hinges in half, and spot-welded them to body. You can't remove them one at a time and fix them off the car.
Where in the block though? Can it still work on the top row with nothing up there?
 
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