Hard turning after new balljoints

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-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
4,570
967
113
Bellevue, Ohio
I just got done replacing all 4 balljoints on the monte. I have everything torqued to spec, greased up and ready to go. My problem is that now the steering wheel is much stiffer to turn than it was. It doesnt bind up or have soft spots its literally like the car is sitting on the ground as I try to turn it. The front suspension is completely suspended so there isnt weight on it. Any ideas here guys? Do I have to break the balljoints in? This is the first time i have gone this far into the suspension. Thanks for any info guys
 

-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
4,570
967
113
Bellevue, Ohio
I should also add that there inst an engine or power steering pump in it yet. Just the gear box and suspension.
 

rustyroger

G-Body Guru
Mar 14, 2007
502
6
18
Margate, UK>
Disconnect the steering arms from the hubs and see if that makes a difference. It's possible you have a bad ball joint out of the box. Anyway if you find it makes no difference you can rule out the ball joints. Check the instructions that came with new joints, some old British cars had ball joints that needed shimming for correct instillation.
It could be the steering box is tight, it should be a bit stiff but not impossible to turn.

But if all you have done is replace the ball joints and it was ok before I think that's where your problem lies.

Roger.
 

-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
4,570
967
113
Bellevue, Ohio
pontiacgp said:
do you have the fittings on the box capped or sealed?
No. I put the hoses on them to control the spray coming from the return line. I put on Speedway upper arms with the bolt on ball joints and just rebuilt stock lowers. Another thing is I torqued them with no grease while the car was in the air. Does it have to sitting on the suspension to torque them? I know that the control arm hardware needs to be torqued with the suspension loaded. When I set the car back down on the ground the steering effort really didnt change much like I thought it would have.
 

-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
4,570
967
113
Bellevue, Ohio
Well I loosened all 4 balljoints and it turns alittle easier. Still stiffer than it was before but im gonna chalk that up to all new ball joints. What is the best way to tighten these? I followed the Chilton manual for the torque specs before but was seemingly too tight. I should add I have Speedway uppers with their bolt in ball joints. Any special procedure?
 

85GPLef41

Royal Smart Person
Nov 14, 2008
2,210
159
63
Colorado
I was understanding it had to be done with the full weight on the suspension... control arms and ball joints.... :!:
 

-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
4,570
967
113
Bellevue, Ohio
85GPLef41 said:
I was understanding it had to be done with the full weight on the suspension... control arms and ball joints.... :!:
Maybe thats why it was too tight! I will try it on the ground right now.
 

-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
4,570
967
113
Bellevue, Ohio
Well I went back and retightened everything with it sitting on the ground and it didnt make much of a difference. IIRC the lower ball joints are Moog and I have read some stories about stiff steering after installing them.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
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113
Kitchener, Ontario
-83MONTESS- said:
Well I loosened all 4 balljoints and it turns alittle easier. Still stiffer than it was before but im gonna chalk that up to all new ball joints. What is the best way to tighten these? I followed the Chilton manual for the torque specs before but was seemingly too tight. I should add I have Speedway uppers with their bolt in ball joints. Any special procedure?

I don't understand what you mean by loosing the ball joints. When you tighten the nut it has no effect on the rotation of the ball joint in it's socket..If you over heighten the nut that only causes stress in the threaded area as the shaft is tapered and once it's seated it will not move.
 
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