Didnt cut the cowl at all. Thats a factory AMD hood. The shop realized the issue after everything was painted.
Hood Hinges update
- Thread starter mikester
- Start date
- Status
I don't have a wagon, but I post some pics of a Glass-Tek on mine with the hood open and closed so you can see how much to cut it - if you're interested.
Thanks for the offer but I dont think Im cutting that hood. Its going to open up another can of worms. I put a piece of pipe under it to hold it up. LOL
I mentioned that on the previous page. Maybe a 10". Once I get the hood back on I'll take a measurement from ball to ball leaving some space for the scoop. What a pain in the butt. Im not even sure if the wiper arms will clear. I'll be pissed if I have to buy another hood. SMH
The shocks i have on my Cutlass I believe are 10" extended length. Yup, just checked, they're 10" which should give you enough clearance.
Here’s some more pictures. The bolt the ratchet is on is where the lower ball goes. You can see in the other picture the rivet that has to be drilled out to remove. Finally the spring can be removed by unbolting the bottom bolt. Having a second person to help hold the hood up makes it much easier.More photos please.
Perhaps a couple of shots from the inside as well would be great. Are you using a ball and socket type post? If yes, then what size? And do you have the part number of what you're strut is?
Dang, I'm full of question lol. Almost like I want you to be the guinea pig
A little simple geometry & physics here.
The closer to the hinge pivot point you are results in more travel and less shock strength. IE, closer requires stronger shock
The further from the hinge pivot you are results in less travel and more shock strength. IE, further requires weaker shock.
Shock fully open sets your max hood opening, but shock does not need to be fully compressed when closed. You must have a little freeplay with shock travel not bottoming out when fully closed, resulting in hood binding & eventually damage. Plenty of ways to inspect shock travel with hood closed, including the modern cell phone video method.
Longer travel weaker shocks mounted more forwards put less stress on mounts vs shorter stronger shocks mounted closer to hinge, though both versions could have similar result.
These parameters can give a little adjustability when making a non adjustable shock work.
No rocket science here, but it is shocking how many people don't understand the basics, pun intended.🤔 I install commercial door hydraulic closers at work, which most all have adjustable spring pressure & closing speeds, which have to be set according to mounting location of between 90 to 180 degrees of opening range. Too bad surface mount closers are so heavy & too bulky for automotive application.
Gas shocks can also be substituted with electric linear actors, but damn these things are slow to me. Some lowrider guys with air ride use air cylinders, which usually give a fast, but harsh movement.
RV and truck topper supply stores are also a source of universal shocks (listed by length & strength), as well as some marine sources.
Just some food for thought from the guy with the most complicated hood mechanism.
The closer to the hinge pivot point you are results in more travel and less shock strength. IE, closer requires stronger shock
The further from the hinge pivot you are results in less travel and more shock strength. IE, further requires weaker shock.
Shock fully open sets your max hood opening, but shock does not need to be fully compressed when closed. You must have a little freeplay with shock travel not bottoming out when fully closed, resulting in hood binding & eventually damage. Plenty of ways to inspect shock travel with hood closed, including the modern cell phone video method.
Longer travel weaker shocks mounted more forwards put less stress on mounts vs shorter stronger shocks mounted closer to hinge, though both versions could have similar result.
These parameters can give a little adjustability when making a non adjustable shock work.
No rocket science here, but it is shocking how many people don't understand the basics, pun intended.🤔 I install commercial door hydraulic closers at work, which most all have adjustable spring pressure & closing speeds, which have to be set according to mounting location of between 90 to 180 degrees of opening range. Too bad surface mount closers are so heavy & too bulky for automotive application.
Gas shocks can also be substituted with electric linear actors, but damn these things are slow to me. Some lowrider guys with air ride use air cylinders, which usually give a fast, but harsh movement.
RV and truck topper supply stores are also a source of universal shocks (listed by length & strength), as well as some marine sources.
Just some food for thought from the guy with the most complicated hood mechanism.
Thought some of you guys might like an update on the hood situation. Today AMD told me the hood weighs between 70-75lbs. I mounted the brackets. The measurement center to center on the balls was 9.50" with the hood about 1/4" away from the glass. Not much to work with. I thought a 9" extended would be a bit better since it would bring the hood a little further away. I spoke to a woman at liftsupports and she had a 9.79 support that will take 112lbs. Factory on a Benz hood. Will it work ? Ive got my doubts. I think theyre going to be too short and wont support the hood due to the mounting location. The shocks are returnable. I should have them by Thursday. Time will tell.
Well, that didnt go as planned. Had someone I know weld the balls on the brackets yesterday. Guy did a beautiful job.
Today I put the shocks on. Jlcustomz was correct. Looks like the angle is totally wrong for a shock to work. As soon as I let the hood go it dropped. The shocks couldnt hold it at all. Im assuming the guys that have this setup have their hoods going further up than mine. Im putting this on the back burner for now. The cars on the road. I can at least drive it. Still have to buy the tires and rims. Worse case, I have to use a pole until I can figure out the right mounting position and shock.
I also have to start back on the 81 to get the oil leak fixed.
Glad the shocks can be returned. LOL
Today I put the shocks on. Jlcustomz was correct. Looks like the angle is totally wrong for a shock to work. As soon as I let the hood go it dropped. The shocks couldnt hold it at all. Im assuming the guys that have this setup have their hoods going further up than mine. Im putting this on the back burner for now. The cars on the road. I can at least drive it. Still have to buy the tires and rims. Worse case, I have to use a pole until I can figure out the right mounting position and shock.
I also have to start back on the 81 to get the oil leak fixed.
Glad the shocks can be returned. LOL
- Status
Similar threads
