how hot is overheating?

[Clone TIE Pilot]

well i guess we have different views of the definition of "stock". my sig says what i have under the hood and to me when i said stock i meant a GM non HO crate motor with 0 performance add ons. did what i could to keep the nature what used to be there including qjet (all the computer junk was deleted, mechanic decision). in all honesty i would have gotten a L69 if were possible. if was original i might have used the term SURVIVOR which i miss saying.

don't know how else to say it without doing a separate paragraph bout how starting in summer 20' GM reproduced engines for the truck that dont wanna quit. 2 were reproed for 87-95, the options were the L05-k for maybe 3/4 ton trucks, suburbans with tbi and the L31 votecs for the Z71s.

"how do we know a GenII sbc waterpump that runs in reverse didn't get installed' i know a reverse water pump wasnt installed thats why i didnt make a issue of it. had already run it oct 21' - nov 22' and the temp was fine. lol man call it whatever you want but lets make this water under the bridge.


EDIT
P.S if you have a better quick use term i can adopt so not to have to splain stuff like this again i'd appreciate. 😎

Without the computer the stock Qjet will default to pig rich and gas wash the cylinders besides the lack of ignition timing advance. Its very illegal for a mechanic to tamper and disable low emssion systems and to install illegal dual exhaust. Dual exhaust is only legal if it was offered by the factory. Its also illegal to drive or sell a tampered car. I hope you still have all the computer parts in case you are forced to restore it in the future.

Hate to say it but it sounds like your mechanic ripped you off and messed up your car. He likely lacks the tools and expertise to work on G bodies and altered your car to best suit him and not you. You can't trust old cars with most mechanics anymore.

 

[L05edSS]

Without the computer the stock Qjet will default to pig rich and gas wash the cylinders besides the lack of ignition timing advance. Its very illegal for a mechanic to tamper and disable low emssion systems and to install illegal dual exhaust. Dual exhaust is only legal if it was offered by the factory. Its also illegal to drive or sell a tampered car. I hope you still have all the computer parts in case you are forced to restore it in the future.

Hate to say it but it sounds like your mechanic ripped you off and messed up your car. He likely lacks the tools and expertise to work on G bodies and altered your car to best suit him and not you. You can't trust old cars with most mechanics anymore.

i know that, its not the CC qjet. i bought a jet chip stage 2 regular qjet with a vac advance dist. while i have a few reservations bout the mechanic that did the motor swap that i been with for 20+ yrs he is fair at the end of the job. BTW i bought & sent all parts to him including the engine. he normally wont do engine swaps but cuz hes a familiy old friend did it and only charged me $1100 cuz of guilt for takin 10 months. the mechanic that switched out the temp sensor (among a bunch of other work not engine related), nothin wrong with him either, been dealin with em for yrs. im very cautious who i let work on my car. i know enough to not be stupid when it comes to old skool stuff. i've conducted now 2 monte builds in last 23 yrs.

i emailed him and he said next time out stop by and gonna put 1 of those lasers on it. was my orig post that bad? lol all i asked was how hot is over heating, i'm admittedly not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to small issues like this that unexpectedly come along if havent experiecned before. read my next reply of 1 where i have.

 

[L05edSS]

How's your fan clutch?

180 is ok, however, 195 as previously mentioned was more for lower emissions, increased performance and economy. A thermostat in general is for a quicker warmup. Cold engines waste gas, metal, and time.

Thermostats do NOTHING for overheating issues or controlling maximum operating temperatures. The setpoint simply dictates the lowest temperature that starts coolant flow through the engine, or basically, it only effects minimum engine coolant temperature. Think of it like a garage door. Temp hits setpoint, garage door opens up. Goes below setpoint, garage door closes. This is based on what the thermostat "pill" temps see. It doesn't care if you have a blown head gasket or other issues. It doesn't care if you have a copper or aluminum radiator or the coolest looking hose covers. Once it opens, its job is done. If you overheat, it doesn't care. It's only the thermostat's fault when it doesn't open due to a thermostat issue.

Have you checked the accuracy of your gage? So you put a new sensor in, which obviously could be off calibration slightly from your original one that died. I mean, if it was dying, who's to say it wasn't reading correctly anyway? It lives in a harsh environment on the head. If the wire is corroded or there's 40 miles of teflon tape keeping the sensor from getting a good ground (a mistake made more often than you think), your indication may be off. I'm assuming you have the factory gage in it, which is just a guesstimate of actual temps. Get an IR temperature gun and take some readings. That should tell you what's going on around your cooling system. You don't have to buy a Fluke brand or any of that super expensive junk. $25 can get you something you can use for comparisons.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G/?tag=gbody-20

You also have a little larger heat generator with the 350. Although your cooling system, if in good shape, should be able to handle it without issue.

If you have an air bubble in the system, that could cause erratic temps as well. If you've been driving it around, the air bubble should have worked itself out. If you're still adding fluid to the overflow, something else may be an issue. If your overflow tank is empty, you can't guarantee you have enough coolant to keep temperatures where they need to be. The rad cap is designed to burp excess coolant to the overflow when hot, but also suck excess coolant from the tank when cooling down to keep the system full. The only air you should have is on top of the fluid in the overflow tank.

good point on the fan clutch. i've had 2 go on my previous monte and both times they just locked & stayed that way. this car i've had for 20 yrs with 72k original miles, havent had to replace (unless was done unkowingly when new engine went in 2k miles ago) and still breaks lock after cold start bout 1/4 mile down the rd and doent lock at 220.

i selected the parts off amazn cuz it was like everything fit my car. only thing that was wrong with temp gauge was the wire connectin to sensor AFTER i got my exhaust done nov 22'. it worked for 2 trips out and temp stayed where its normal 1st dot on gauge and never deviated previous even after engine swap. it quit, when had my mechanic look at it we determined was right there at the sensor wire connection old & decayed or somethin. this why i subscribe to a air bubble from the sensor bein swapped out or "So you put a new sensor in, which obviously could be off calibration slightly from your original one" thats kinda what was thinking too. im ruling out blown head gasket and heres why. in 2000 i had put in my previous ss a GMPP 330hp HO 350 had it hooked up to all the emissions trash and I MYSELF bought the wrong EGR. broke that engine in runnin hardcore lean for 1st 1k miles. it was too much for the ECM to correct... i cringe still thinkin bout it. it was so bad off idle throttle motor went silent then caught & went. that pricy jet hot coating on TES headers didnt last 300 miles but that engine lived to 15k miles after straighted out before totaling it. even when it was that LEAN temp never moved beyond that 1st dot on temp gauge. now i have 0 emissions on the engine and there is no stumbles. but to your point the mech that made the gauge work again said something similar to what you said "So you put a new sensor in, which obviously could be off calibration slightly from your original one" and this is why i did this post for things i didnt or couldnt think of. only gt bout 70 miles with new sensor and maybe 700 miles since exhaust was done.

thanks for responding, def constructive. been in contact with my mech that did that job tld em whats what, hes gonna hit everything with 1 of those heat laser guns.

 

[spongbob]

I want t o mention something proubly mechanics don't know .....as far as heat that the radiator handles it ...is......directly....proportional to how well your exhaust valves are (sealing)at least half the heat from say 150 to 220 is how good those exhaust valves seal...yes ...I said seal...if the valves leak whatever reason say common burned scorched tipped ,set to tight late timing whatever...the heat coefficient is dew to proper containment of combustion....How do I know this excusing head gaskets /any time I have ground a set of valves the heat has went down ...that's right down, someone's going to say yeah you did that...someone else is going to find the hot engine runs a helluvah lot cooler on a fresh valve job .and yes even they have to seat in.... so...expect something on the difference of 2 thousanths less lash after a hundred miles..thanks for listening goodnight....the cats outta that bag..I did not say" the temperature gauge went down , but what went(heat) through the radiator certainly did...aside from that expect the gauge to go down some when things were bad enough

 

[ck80]

well i guess we have different views of the definition of "stock". my sig says what i have under the hood and to me when i said stock i meant a GM non HO crate motor with 0 performance add ons. did what i could to keep the nature what used to be there including qjet (all the computer junk was deleted, mechanic decision). in all honesty i would have gotten a L69 if were possible. if was original i might have used the term SURVIVOR which i miss saying.

don't know how else to say it without doing a separate paragraph bout how starting in summer 20' GM reproduced engines for the truck that dont wanna quit. 2 were reproed for 87-95, the options were the L05-k for maybe 3/4 ton trucks, suburbans with tbi and the L31 votecs for the Z71s.

"how do we know a GenII sbc waterpump that runs in reverse didn't get installed' i know a reverse water pump wasnt installed thats why i didnt make a issue of it. had already run it oct 21' - nov 22' and the temp was fine. lol man call it whatever you want but lets make this water under the bridge.


EDIT
P.S if you have a better quick use term i can adopt so not to have to splain stuff like this again i'd appreciate. 😎

FWIW: many of us browse the site on a smartphone. When I'm on my smartphone no 'signatures' appear on any post, only when it's through a laptop.

Don't assume people can see what's written there

 

[86LK]

FWIW: many of us browse the site on a smartphone. When I'm on my smartphone no 'signatures' appear on any post, only when it's through a laptop.

Don't assume people can see what's written there

and I'm one of those people who block .sig lines. it just clutters up the screen and makes it harder to read. plus, a lot of times they are either irrelevant or waaaaaaaaaaay out of date

 

[L05edSS]

FWIW: many of us browse the site on a smartphone. When I'm on my smartphone no 'signatures' appear on any post, only when it's through a laptop.

Don't assume people can see what's written there

fair enough, i have no cell ph so had no idea.

 

[L05edSS]

and I'm one of those people who block .sig lines. it just clutters up the screen and makes it harder to read. plus, a lot of times they are either irrelevant or waaaaaaaaaaay out of date

i just learned that as i have no cellph.

 

[L05edSS]

I want t o mention something proubly mechanics don't know .....as far as heat that the radiator handles it ...is......directly....proportional to how well your exhaust valves are (sealing)at least half the heat from say 150 to 220 is how good those exhaust valves seal...yes ...I said seal...if the valves leak whatever reason say common burned scorched tipped ,set to tight late timing whatever...the heat coefficient is dew to proper containment of combustion....How do I know this excusing head gaskets /any time I have ground a set of valves the heat has went down ...that's right down, someone's going to say yeah you did that...someone else is going to find the hot engine runs a helluvah lot cooler on a fresh valve job .and yes even they have to seat in.... so...expect something on the difference of 2 thousanths less lash after a hundred miles..thanks for listening goodnight....the cats outta that bag..I did not say" the temperature gauge went down , but what went(heat) through the radiator certainly did...aside from that expect the gauge to go down some when things were bad enough

interesting, i shouldnt be having issues there, its a brand new gm long block with 2k miles not abused and only started after swappin out temp sensor & wire connector. just sux cant take it out cuz summer heat is awful.

 

[L05edSS]

UPDATE! finally got the car in the shop to clean up a few things and this was on the list. nothing out of the ordinary was found and he said the temp around the sensor reads 206-210 and its in this nasty heat & humidity. 220 is the new normal i'll be reading on the gauge, thank to all that chimed in.