Only if special ordered with extra HD cooling for the 3 row. The small V8 they went with what would do the job and nothing more. Stock rear end was probably a 2.41gear.
How many rows is best?
- Thread starter Metzger82
- Start date
- Status
I know what you mean. Did radiator recores and repair for 10 years as well. Still do now and then for my brother. They had just changed over to higher fin count with smaller tubes when I stopped.
Last edited:
Less than $150 with freight from Rock Auto for a stock setup. It will be plenty.
I was basing the Olds were likely the same as the Chevys. My previous Malibu's/Camino's (I've owned several over the years) were all factory GM 3-row w/the v6 & 267/305 V8's. The current '78 was a 46k mile car w/the original 3-row radiator in it. I swapped it out for the freshly cleaned 3-row that was pulled from my last El Camino. None of those cars I would have imagined came w/HD optioned equipment. The El Camino didn't even have A/C from GM.
May very from area too. Though the ElCo may have “towing” possibles. Up here in the northeast they probably tried to save money. 🤣
I never realized how good of a source of information you all are especially for ideas in different setups and budget ideas. When I looked at the radiator it appears to be a 1 row, and I'm assuming it's the original one because almost the entire car has it's original parts which I'm realizing is a double edged sword but I mean when it's snowing here that just means more time to make money to replace everything!
Two Row, copper or brass. Three row if running an A/C or doing lots of commuter, stop and go traffic or idling a lot.
Be sure to match your coolant to what the manufacturer of the rad suggests. I personally run Prestone 50/50 pre-Mix in all my vehicles but aluminum block motors have different needs and requirements.
FYI, Flush the coolant system out! Thoroughly!!!. Don't forget the heater core and hoses if you are still running them. You can flush or back-flush, which latter is only running the flushing solution through the system backwards. Pop the thermostat housing off and check the T-stat. This is a good time to replace it while the system is being serviced. There is even a T-state variant available that, if it fails, it fails in the opne position so coolant will keep moving and not overheat and blow out into the overflow container. Same-same goes for the hoses and their clamps. The radiator is just one part of the cooling system and it being new just means that all that old stuff you kept now becomes the weakest link.
Nick
Be sure to match your coolant to what the manufacturer of the rad suggests. I personally run Prestone 50/50 pre-Mix in all my vehicles but aluminum block motors have different needs and requirements.
FYI, Flush the coolant system out! Thoroughly!!!. Don't forget the heater core and hoses if you are still running them. You can flush or back-flush, which latter is only running the flushing solution through the system backwards. Pop the thermostat housing off and check the T-stat. This is a good time to replace it while the system is being serviced. There is even a T-state variant available that, if it fails, it fails in the opne position so coolant will keep moving and not overheat and blow out into the overflow container. Same-same goes for the hoses and their clamps. The radiator is just one part of the cooling system and it being new just means that all that old stuff you kept now becomes the weakest link.
Nick
On the other end of the spectrum if flushed and only water is in the block , fill with straight antifreeze and the water in the block will delute it for a -40* mix 😏 Used to used air/ water surge to back flush the system .
- Status
Similar threads
