None of your friends have a welder? I know I live over a hour north of you, but if you came over I would fix you up.I have seemingly found my issue. Advance springs were somewhat weak and were allowing 4* more of advance at idle. I put new springs, not necessarily stiffer but they are new, and a crane adjustable vacuum advance from crane, 99600-1. I need to drive around and adjust the vacuum advance, but it seems to not be hanging up anymore. Whether or not I still have a vacuum leak is TBD, I dropped a spare downpipe and an O2 bung from the AEM kit off at a local machine shop on Friday. It was a Friday at 3PM, so it probably won't be done until Monday or Tuesday.
Nope. One has access, but he's not very good lol.None of your friends have a welder? I know I live over a hour north of you, but if you came over I would fix you up.
Base timing is 10*, dist has 22*, 34* all in (no vacuum advance as of now until I get it dialed in), by 2600rpm. Runs pretty good. My 8:1 350 I had at 12*, but never curved it, it was as TA set it with the same 22* of mech. advance but in at 3000.That's a lot of advance for a Buick 350. My '68 used 0° and my '74 used 4°. Is that basic crank timing or are you hooking the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum?
If your fast idle linkage is sticking it will idle high and get higher as it warms up because warm engines atomize fuel better therefore run smoother with more rpm. let it warm up with the air cleaner off (all vacuum hoses plugged) and see if the choke opens all the way and the fast idle weights drop all the way down.My Hurst has a tendency to idle high and go even higher as it warms up , any ideas as to what may be causing it ? The car has sat an awful lot and not benn driven much
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