Interested in buying an 86 Monte Carlo, what should know, ask and check before buying?

[Thugnificent]

It's quite unique, it has a 383 small block inside rather than the stock 305, and has a turbo 350 transmission instead of the 200-4r. I love the look of G-body's and I'm pretty dead set on buying this one, but what are some things I should know, check and ask the seller?

 

[gbodytoys]

It's quite unique, it has a 383 small block inside rather than the stock 305, and has a turbo 350 transmission instead of the 200-4r. I love the look of G-body's and I'm pretty dead set on buying this one, but what are some things I should know, check and ask the seller?

Well...

It's not unique in the sense that Chevy didn't put the 383 engine that car, one of the owners did. Also 350's did come in Monte Carlo's, I believe pre-1985.

Is it an SS? I would say check for rust, that's the main thing. Rust on the frame, rear quarter, doors (especially the bottom), the trunk under the carpet, etc...

Do you have pics?

 

[Thugnificent]

Well...

It's not unique in the sense that Chevy didn't put the 383 engine that car, one of the owners did. Also 350's did come in Monte Carlo's, I believe pre-1985.

Is it an SS? I would say check for rust, that's the main thing. Rust on the frame, rear quarter, doors (especially the bottom), the trunk under the carpet, etc...

Do you have pics?

Well...

It's not unique in the sense that Chevy didn't put the 383 engine that car, one of the owners did. Also 350's did come in Monte Carlo's, I believe pre-1985.

Is it an SS? I would say check for rust, that's the main thing. Rust on the frame, rear quarter, doors (especially the bottom), the trunk under the carpet, etc...

Do you have pics?

I don't have pics but the listing is https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/pml/cto/d/monte-carlo/6197333758.html

There is some rust.in the trunk, it's a small hole, and there is some rust under the side view mirror on the right door.

It's an LS

 

[Jeff L]

Just looking at the pictures that LS had a bunch of modifications like the engine and I would carefully look to see if the engine swap was done right or a hack job.

Things to think about or look into:

Check all the accessories to see if they work like wipers, heat control, lights, etc.

What suspension work was done?

Was the car in an accident?

Check for strange noises when you drive like clunking from suspension or tire rub, grinding, etc.

Ask why are they selling? If it because they need the cash, ok. Or are they getting rid of it because it is a money pit and always breaking down?

Pull the dipsticks and look at the fluids. Do they look clean, smell burnt, at the proper level? If those fluid changes were avoided, what else did they skimp on?

What happened to a few friends is they went to see a car like the LS and all they "saw" was the motor and heard a loud car. They saw nothing else and a couple of them ended up with cars that sat more then they drove because they ended up with someone elses mistake. Make sure to look at the whole car. Unless you plan to sink a bunch of money into it to modify it your way, no sense spending five grand and end up spending another 5 grand to get it right if all you wanted was to buy and drive.

Good luck and hope it works out for you.

 

[Opie Knievel]

Jeff L has some good suggestions.

Also, check for rust on the rear frame rails behind the rear wheels especially. Check the quarters for rust, the doors (especially the bottom) and along the drip rail on the roof. Crawl underneath it and check it out really good. Rust likes to eat these cars alive.

Also, for that price, I would expect the engine and transmission to be in really good condition as well as the rear end and brakes. It looks like a pretty solid car in the pics and the bucket/console option is nice. Just make sure you check it out really good and make sure it's in good shape before you shell out that much cash for a 31 year old car! Welcome to the forum. Let us know how things go.

 

[Longroof79]

I agree with Jeff and Opie both....excellent suggestions.

It also couldn't hurt to bring a knowledgeable gearhead friend along to check out the car. As the old adage goes, two heads are better than one. Whatever you miss, he'll more than likely will catch.

If there is a few areas of rust present, don't be surprised to find more hidden in various places...it's the nature of the beast.

 

[sportriderOK]

If it has rust in the trunk, chances are it has rust in the floors. Check the front pans by the toe board and the rears in front of the back seat. That's a lot of money if it's rusty.

 

[pontiacgp]

I wouldn't buy it unless it comes with a safety certificate and a certificate it has passed any emission laws that are applicable to the car.

 

[ed1948]

Do you want just a disposable driver or are your intentions to restore it?
I would pay no more than $4000CDN ($3000USD)(if it had the original drivetrain) and budget for another $3 to $4K on top of that to do it right. If you can see 'just a little' rust, it's the rust you can't see that will cause you($$ and time) problems. Are you capable of doing your own work?
Do the usual mechanical items check that usually are cheap and easy to fix - brakes, brake and fuel lines, steering linkages etc
The following is what may drive repair/restore costs through the ceiling>>>>
-check for any repainted areas that may hide poor body repairs
-from under the pass side floor check for holes(4 screws, remove door sill plate and lift carpet)
-same as above for driver's side
-look in the trunk..can you see the outside anywhere?
-inspect/hammer the frame 1 foot to the rear of the back tires - look for holes or jagged pieces of frame
-bounce the car up and down by the rear bumper - does the bumper flex?
-push on the rockers behind the rear wheels
-open the doors partially and lift and push with force and note looseness
-inspect door hinge/cowl area for rust
-carefully open and close anything that opens and note any noise or higher effort to close
Does your area have emission regs, i.e.: Does OEM emission equipment need to be installed to be legal?

FYI: I bought a 90,000 mile, 5 previous owner, excellent condition, partial repaint, all OEM 86 SS last year for $10K CDN($7500 USD)
-so far I've replaced body mount bushings, brake flex lines, water pump, door hinges, replaced all fluids, performed lots of minor repairs and maintenance to the body and mechanical assemblies, very minor rust abatement < this was a car that appeared ' mint ' looking.

 

[bob64]

My question because l know that area is how close is it to the water ? Does it sit outside most if not all the time ? If its close to the water, humidity is the killer of cars. Also you might want to look at all the window and other seals. Trunk seal most likely died and water went into the truck causing the hole.

Check all electrical as once again moisture from that area. Others have mentioned check fluids , engine ,transmission and rad. Because its from Port there maybe condensation in the oil cap but pulling the dipstick it should be clean, and within the add/full mark. Smell the fluids, they all should smell what they are and nothing else. transmission shouldn't smell burnt. Antifreeze when you check take rad cap off and check the color or for oil. Check underneath everything for rust , floors , bottom of doors(bondo an rust) and really check frame and mounts. I know l always do a taste test but that's me.

If everything is up to snuff take it for a drive , rock the car from drive to reverse and listen for noises, drive it and check steering for tightness, check brakes while stopping, do they grab or seem normal.

5 grands a lot for and LS , you can find project SS's for that ! Don't expect the seller to be straightforward they are few and far between. Best of luck ! Got further questions just ask and l am sure you'll get lots of answers.