Key not turning over engine...84 Monte Carlo
- Thread starter Tynan918
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That's the correct terminal.
The ignition switch has 2 big red wires going into it. See if they have 12V on them. They come from the big terminal on the starter where the battery cable went. There is a fuseable link in the circuit. If you have 12V at the red wires put the tester on the purple wire at the ignition switch connector and try the key and see if it has 12V there when trying to start.
The ignition switch has 2 big red wires going into it. See if they have 12V on them. They come from the big terminal on the starter where the battery cable went. There is a fuseable link in the circuit. If you have 12V at the red wires put the tester on the purple wire at the ignition switch connector and try the key and see if it has 12V there when trying to start.
Double check the solenoid terminal you picked up is the one marked "S". That should be the one your bump starter is attached to as well and you got that working so the starter is fine. It's possible that you pinched one of the wires when reinstalling the starter and burned the fusible link. You wouldn't be the first person to do that. It will kill ignition but you would still have power in the car
For diagnostic purposes if I had that apart like that i would hold the switch in one hand and try to duplicate what the rod is doing with an allen wrench, pick or small screwdriver. See if all the electrical stuff is happy.
That rod should not come out like that that aluminum part that goes up into the column runs in a channel in the housing (it also locks the shifter). The front part engages with the rack gear. That rod is in the non tilt part of the column. When you tilt it the radius in the back of the rack gear allows it to move with the tilt and still function. The red marked part goes inside the rack gear radius the blue marked part goes against the back of the rack gear radius.
That radius part gets broken often, it is supposed to be periodically lubricated, when was the last time you saw someone do routine maintenance on a steering column? Never. If that piece binds when you move the tilt it will just crack. A few more times and it is broken off.
This part stays stationary.
This part moves with the tilt part of the column.
If this was not confusing enough I can keep trying.
That rod should not come out like that that aluminum part that goes up into the column runs in a channel in the housing (it also locks the shifter). The front part engages with the rack gear. That rod is in the non tilt part of the column. When you tilt it the radius in the back of the rack gear allows it to move with the tilt and still function. The red marked part goes inside the rack gear radius the blue marked part goes against the back of the rack gear radius.
That radius part gets broken often, it is supposed to be periodically lubricated, when was the last time you saw someone do routine maintenance on a steering column? Never. If that piece binds when you move the tilt it will just crack. A few more times and it is broken off.
This part stays stationary.
This part moves with the tilt part of the column.
If this was not confusing enough I can keep trying.
The shifter never locked... I duplicated the switch with a screwdriver, cluster lights come on but no turnover. Checking the red wire voltages you mentioned before.
How do I do a diagnosis to see if all the electrical stuff is happy ?
How do I get the stationary piece on the bracket without going into the steering column or breaking this ceramic piece the bracket hides under ?
It takes a fair amount of force to go from. The run position to the start position on the switch. If you did it with a screwdriver are you sure you went all the way? you didn't have the column apart so a column problem is the least likely scenario. This is almost certainly related to the work you did right before it stopped working.
Use your meter or test light. See where you have power. Red wires in, purple wire out with the switch pushed all the way forward.
Jump from the battery cable terminal to the purple wire terminal. Does the starter work?
find where the big red wires go through the firewall the connector under the wiper motor ,see if you can get a test lead on the connector. Does it have 12V?
Test at the ignition switch. Two red wires in does it have 12V?
You can also try jumping from the red to the purple wire on the ignition switch.
Don't try hooking up the switch to the key there is a problem there so you can't count on it.
Wires going into the car.
wire.
Checking voltage on 1/2 of ignition switch plug. Red wire.
jumping purple and red wire. Starter turns.
Jump from the battery cable terminal to the purple wire terminal. Does the starter work?
find where the big red wires go through the firewall the connector under the wiper motor ,see if you can get a test lead on the connector. Does it have 12V?
Test at the ignition switch. Two red wires in does it have 12V?
You can also try jumping from the red to the purple wire on the ignition switch.
Don't try hooking up the switch to the key there is a problem there so you can't count on it.
Wires going into the car.
wire.Checking voltage on 1/2 of ignition switch plug. Red wire.
jumping purple and red wire. Starter turns.
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Yea I went all the way on the switch with some force, like a strong spring I was pushing up against in the switch.
When I started the job my key wasn't starting my engine, but I can start the engine with a starter bumper I have connected under the hood telling me the starter is good, so I assumed it was the ignition switch was bad and replaced it. When I replaced it, I didn't know the rod was connected to it as I was lifting it but eventually got it out.
Maybe I got it off track pulling out the ignition switch... But how do I put it back on track correctly ?
Yea I went all the way on the switch with some force, like a strong spring I was pushing up against in the switch.
When I started the job my key wasn't starting my engine, but I can start the engine with a starter bumper I have connected under the hood telling me the starter is good, so I assumed it was the ignition switch was bad and replaced it. When I replaced it, I didn't know the rod was connected to it as I was lifting it but eventually got it out.
Maybe I got it off track pulling out the ignition switch... But how do I put it back on track correctly
While doing this, do both connectors need to be disconnected or just the one you have pictured ?
And key needs to be in the "start" or "on" or turning over position ?
Really appreciate your detailed information
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