Lets Talk About OEM Brakes - Fade-a-Rama

[pontiacgp]

Which is why you do not want to use the S10 wheel cylinders if frequent/hard braking is in the plans. They shift the brake bias to the rear, especially if you gut the prop valve.

You don't want to run drums if frequent and hard braking are in the plans. The drum expands from the heat and you lose your pedal. The rear brakes on my GP improved noticeably when I installed the A body rear with the bolt in wheel cylinders vs the cylinders with the G body clip.

 

[motorheadmike]

You just have to run bigger tires in back until they stop looking up.

People said locking would be a problem on my buick with long shoes and S10 cylinders, but its hard to lock 275/60's. 215/65's might get a little hairy.

Maybe. But, who does spirited driving on balloon sized tires? 😉

 

[ed1948]

Re: Prop valve - My 84 S10 Blazer had a brass valve.

 

[Texas82GP]

I'm a bit curious about the recall for the proportioning valve. I was a dealer technician in several GM dealerships from 1990 to 2006. I did quite a few recall related repairs to both the A/G body cars for the rear backing plate/wheel cylinder problems, but I've never heard of a proportioning valve recall on these cars. I contacted 3 of the guys that I used to work with during that time, and they hadn't heard of it either. I've never seen a brass proportioning valve on any A/G body car that I've ever owned or worked on (and I've owned a few, and worked on quite a few, since they were first introduced). I have seen brass proportioning valves from time to time, but in my experience, they're usually an aftermarket part. I never saw one during the time I spent working at dealerships. Did this recall for the proportioning valve only occur in certain areas? Does anyone here have any information on it (recall number, vehicles that are affected, etc)?

I agree. I'd like to hear more on this. I searched on ALLDATA but I didn't find a recall or TSB, but that doesn't mean anything. I noticed on the Parts Place website, where they are selling the brass valve, they claim the iron valves were recalled due to corrosion issues.

 

[Injectedcutty]

I agree. I'd like to hear more on this. I searched on ALLDATA but I didn't find a recall or TSB, but that doesn't mean anything. I noticed on the Parts Place website, where they are selling the brass valve, they claim the iron valves were recalled due to corrosion issues.

In addition to this....i went through 2 brass valves before going back to a iron unit. If running steel brake lines the brass seems to work fine. However, I'm running stainless lines and they were impossible to get sealed without ripping the threads out of the valve. I thought maybe i had a defective valve, so i bought another and it did the same thing!

I got pissed and pulled a really clean iron one from a caprice classic....haven't had an issue since.

 

[Texas82GP]

In addition to this....i went through 2 brass valves before going back to a iron unit. If running steel brake lines the brass seems to work fine. However, I'm running stainless lines and they were impossible to get sealed without ripping the threads out of the valve. I thought maybe i had a defective valve, so i bought another and it did the same thing!

I got pissed and pulled a really clean iron one from a caprice classic....haven't had an issue since.

Wish I had held off on buying a brass valve. I cleaned my iron valve (externally) and painted it. Maybe I'll leave it on.

 

[Injectedcutty]

I agree. I'd like to hear more on this. I searched on ALLDATA but I didn't find a recall or TSB, but that doesn't mean anything. I noticed on the Parts Place website, where they are selling the brass valve, they claim the iron valves were recalled due to corrosion issues.

In addition to this....i went through 2 brass valves before going back to a iron unit. If running steel brake lines the brass seems to work fine. However, I'm running stainless lines and they were impossible to get sealed without ripping the threads out of the valve. I thought maybe i had a defective valve, so i bought another and it did the same thing!

I got pissed and pulled a really clean iron one from a caprice classic....haven't had an issue since.

Wish I had held off on buying a brass valve. I cleaned my iron valve (externally) and painted it. Maybe I'll leave it on.

What really sucked was i chucked my oe unit about a week or two before i started having issues with the brass units!!!! Mine worked fine, i just thought the brass one looked way nicer....and after $100 in the drain i have another iron unit that was also cleaned and painted with brake caliper paint !

 

[Monte Cristo]

You don't want to run drums if frequent and hard braking are in the plans. The drum expands from the heat and you lose your pedal. The rear brakes on my GP improved noticeably when I installed the A body rear with the bolt in wheel cylinders vs the cylinders with the G body clip.

Has anyone upgraded to rear disk? Monte Mike's has a conversion kit:
http://www.mikesmontes.com/10-Bolt-...Rotors-Braided-Hosed-and-Calipers_p_1118.html
There must also be other options from later model cars and trucks. That does requite re-engineering the entire brake hydraulic system, i.e., the master cylinder and proportioning valve, etc, but should noticeably improve performance. It isn't cheap and not stock, but it is a safety issue that should be considered. I can still remember doing a 180 one night in my Monte back in the day when I had to hit the brakes hard to avoid hitting a deer in the middle of the road. Rear disk brakes should reduce that kind of problem.