Take a small punch or finish nail with tip removed and use it to push the pin back that holds the accelerator pump arm on. Tap with small hammer if you have one. Place about .030 feeler gauge behind so when pin goes back, it doesn't go all the way back. This allows you to get a small flat blade behind it when air horn is back on. Line up the hole in the pump arm and push the pin forward.
On the choke side just remove small screw that connects the choke linkage to choke blade. It just comes off and set aside. Choke rod will fall free. From there just pull air horn straight up. Re-install is just the reverse.
It's all good my friend. I just shut her off for the night after going for a short drive to check the shift into 3rd, keeping in mind that the brakes aren't exactly up to par. Everything is great, and the radio came back on playing "Dancing In The Dark" by Springsteen out of nowhere- I promise I'm not making this up. This has been an incredible day/night for me, and I almost don't believe it.
Full gauge complement and the braces from the fenders to the rad cradle are still there in the engine bay?? Total bonus. Them being there is a sign that there has been very little invasion into the engine bay; you may have been the first in quite a while.
I do agree on the rehab therapy suggested for the interior. You can get some serious carpet and upholstery shampoo and a good soft bristle brush and have at 'er. Use a wet/dry vac to sweep up the crud. Those plush seat pillows really trap the crap.
I instantly thought of that movie, because who wouldn't? I won't paint this car for a while with the exception of stopping the progression of rust. The roof is covered in filler that's popping off and the rear glass trim is lousy with sanding scratches. Other than that and the floors she seems to be a real gem.
Ya know, I was actually considering it. I haven't put any real thought into that part of things yet, I've got to get her on the road legally first. But the sunroof and the roof in general are pretty high on the list of priorities.
I did change the small one at the carb. I haven't changed the one in the frame rail yet. I also ran the old oil up to now because I didn't see the point in spending $40 just in case there was a problem. I know that old oil is acidic, but I figured getting it up to temp and burning off the moisture throughout the engine was more important considering the oil had already been circulated. I'm going to change it today, and again soon. I'm also going to utilize a bit of transmission fluid in the oil the first time just to help clean things up. I have ZDDP additive from Rislone and some Liqui-Moly for protection. I suctioned out the P.S. reservoir and replaced the fluid with 16oz of Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Conditioners. The old fluid smelled fine but looked like used cooking oil.
I really need to start a new thread since this was supposed to be a discussion about purchasing the car over other vehicles. I have a ton of things to share but I'm on a time crunch and can only post from my phone or tablet. Things keep progressing and you guys are chiming in with helpful tips so we're just going with it for now, and I can't keep myself from updating the thread since I know you're curious. I'll add a bit here but am going to save most of it for a thread dedicated to restoring the ol' girl back to her former glory.
GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
