LOUD NOISES

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If broken rings are caught early, it can be confined to one cylinder and not yet generate widespread engine damage. A slight overbore, new pistons/rings and gaskets and the motor might be able to slapped back together and run for another 40K miles problem free... or you can look at a cheap crate long block for a little more $, but a lot less work/time.

If the noise is still there with the loose flexplate tight, the motor needs to come out.

Anyone on
This is the 2nd time you referenced advice from an outside source - you should stop listening to that source. I don't want to that sound mean or condescending, but that is the craziest thing I've ever heard.

You've confirmed the noise, it's a loose flexplate. The smoke needs to be dealt with UNGN has given you the 1st step to finding the issue. But now that you know the flexplate is loose, you need to get the trans removed and check the flexplate and crank bolt holes for the flexplate. Probably you can get by with a new flexplate and bolts - about $50 and your time and a 'knowledge gaining experience' at pulling the transmission. For an experienced guy with a jack and jack stands the trans removal is abut a 2 hour job - plan on the better part of day.

What's the oil and dipstick look like? And how about any coolant use? Is it low most every time you crank it up?

From there grab the new parts I suggested and now you can head off onto UNGN's recommendation. Take pics of anything questionable and ask - no one here will lea you astray.

p.s - to heck with having someone do it for you if you have a garage or level and smooth driveway. Keep in mind that you'll be able to crank the motor with the transmission removed for the compression test.

I agree, but I only reference outside sources to verify if there is any truth behind what they're saying. Thanks for the advice, I will be doing just that!
 
Non running projects are never in high demand. Ask $2K but take the first $1,500
 
Transmission out, starter out, fuel pump out, headers off, flywheel out ( was the source of the noise) loose as all hell. Got all the new parts, and now just got to put her back together.

Replacing fuel pump, starter, flywheel, and gonna grind and paint headers flat black.
 

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Do want some input on the transmission though. It is rigged in the rear. Not sure how long they drop it like that, but is there a fix without replacing?
 
Leave it til it becomes a problem. Tailshaft is not a stressed part just holds the seal.

It's kind of not stressed, until it is, Forward of the seal, there should be a tailshaft bushing that interacts with the OD of the driveshaft nose, especially at higher speeds and is supposed to dampen uncontrolled vibration. A busted tailshaft could let the vibration get out of control and could be a sign the vibration is already not in control and busted the tailshaft.

I burned up a tailshaft bushing during a race (stupid 17 degree F-body angle thing and kept the bushing from oiling) the car would start hopping above 160 mph from the harmonic driveshaft whipping. below on 140 it was "just noisy".
 
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