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UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
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Go to the autoparts store and get a compression tester (it screws into the spark plug holes). Pull all of the plugs. Look for oil fouling. Gently clean off any oil fouling and look for rust on the plugs. Unplug the hot wire you ran to the distributor and test for compression with WOT throttle.

If the cylinders all have equal, good compression, it can't be rings making that clattering.
 
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oldsmobile joe

Royal Smart Person
Nov 12, 2015
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i like Ungn's suggestion, but i would first try to locate where the noise is located. using an automotive stethoscope, or a long screw driver to your ear, try and locate where the noise is loudest.
also, before pulling the plugs for a compression test, using a vacuum gage can indicate if the engine has a compression issue. google engine diagnosis with vacuum gage for more info.
 
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James Hannigan

Apprentice
Apr 30, 2018
62
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8
O-HI-O
Go to the autoparts store and get a compression tester (it screws into the spark plug holes). Pull all of the plugs. Look for oil fouling. Gently clean off any oil fouling and look for rust on the plugs. Unplug the hot wire you ran to the distributor and test for compression with WOT throttle.

If the cylinders all have equal, good compression, it can't be rings making that clattering.

so I finally got this car up in the air and went to messing around, found the fly wheel is loose as hell, along with missing/damaged teeth, but I was told that my fuel pump might be bad. Would that create the smoking blowby if its getting too much fuel? Pulling the plug from the valve cover to add oil its very clean and smells like gas.
 

pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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if your oil is smelling like gas that means you're are constantly flooding the engine. That will wash the oil from the cylinder walls which will destroy the rings and scratch the walls. If the rings are damaged you will get blow by
 
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James Hannigan

Apprentice
Apr 30, 2018
62
22
8
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if your oil is smelling like gas that means you're are constantly flooding the engine. That will wash the oil from the cylinder walls which will destroy the rings and scratch the walls. If the rings are damaged you will get blow by


Yeah... kinda thinking Im screwed on this one...

Many headaches ahead or just buy a new engine thats the question now lol
 

pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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if you have the place would keep the engine you have now and take it apart to see what's damaged. If there is damage on the cylinder walls that might be fixed by honing the walls. If the pistons are in good shape rings are not that expensive and main/rod bearings are not that expensive either. Depending on your experience you can find lots of info here and on youtube and it's always a good thing to have a manual handy to review while you are assembling the engine. Depending on your budget you can pick up an engine to drop in so you can drive the car until the engine you repaired is ready to be abused....
 
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James Hannigan

Apprentice
Apr 30, 2018
62
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if you have the place would keep the engine you have now and take it apart to see what's damaged. If there is damage on the cylinder walls that might be fixed by honing the walls. If the pistons are in good shape rings are not that expensive and main/rod bearings are not that expensive either. Depending on your experience you can find lots of info here and on youtube and it's always a good thing to have a manual handy to review while you are assembling the engine. Depending on your budget you can pick up an engine to drop in so you can drive the car until the engine you repaired is ready to be abused....

I have little mechanical experience, and zero at these older cars lol

I am kinda a nerd though and learn quick, so I will def. be picking up some reading material and most likely be looking to you guys for info as I go. I do think its worth pulling apart to see though. Thats for sure! Especially since previous owner knows little to nothing about it.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
20,391
113
Kitchener, Ontario
I have little mechanical experience, and zero at these older cars lol

I am kinda a nerd though and learn quick, so I will def. be picking up some reading material and most likely be looking to you guys for info as I go. I do think its worth pulling apart to see though. Thats for sure! Especially since previous owner knows little to nothing about it.

one thing with gaining knowledge, you will never lose it and it can pay you back many times over...

the worst thing about changing an engine is the engine that is in there now probably has rusted bolts that will cause you some headaches. Once you install an engine all the bolts are new and fresh so it's easier to work on the clean engine and it's much easier if you ever want to remove it for any reason.
 
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UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
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Southlake, TX
If broken rings are caught early, it can be confined to one cylinder and not yet generate widespread engine damage. A slight overbore, new pistons/rings and gaskets and the motor might be able to slapped back together and run for another 40K miles problem free... or you can look at a cheap crate long block for a little more $, but a lot less work/time.

If the noise is still there with the loose flexplate tight, the motor needs to come out.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Upstate NY
so I finally got this car up in the air and went to messing around, found the fly wheel is loose as hell, along with missing/damaged teeth, but I was told that my fuel pump might be bad. Would that create the smoking blowby if its getting too much fuel? Pulling the plug from the valve cover to add oil its very clean and smells like gas.

This is the 2nd time you referenced advice from an outside source - you should stop listening to that source. I don't want to that sound mean or condescending, but that is the craziest thing I've ever heard.

You've confirmed the noise, it's a loose flexplate. The smoke needs to be dealt with UNGN has given you the 1st step to finding the issue. But now that you know the flexplate is loose, you need to get the trans removed and check the flexplate and crank bolt holes for the flexplate. Probably you can get by with a new flexplate and bolts - about $50 and your time and a 'knowledge gaining experience' at pulling the transmission. For an experienced guy with a jack and jack stands the trans removal is abut a 2 hour job - plan on the better part of day.

What's the oil and dipstick look like? And how about any coolant use? Is it low most every time you crank it up?

From there grab the new parts I suggested and now you can head off onto UNGN's recommendation. Take pics of anything questionable and ask - no one here will lea you astray.

p.s - to heck with having someone do it for you if you have a garage or level and smooth driveway. Keep in mind that you'll be able to crank the motor with the transmission removed for the compression test.
 
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