LSX G-body Swap Write Up

[Clone TIE Pilot]

For anyone looking to use manifolds the gen 5 camaro manifolds are a very tight hugging manifold and I believe they dump into a 2.5" collector. Also as a former fbody owner I couldn't recommend pacesetter after my last set. Their ceramic coating is garbage. Mine started rotting out in less than 2 years and a buddies did the same both garage kept.

BBK has much better pricing on their hedders and I have heard very few complaints as to there durability. I would be curious to see how they fit.

150tunes.com has one of the best prices I've seen for wiring harness trim down and computer tuning. 300 for the trim down and 150 for the tune. Something to keep in mind if you plan to go efi and use electrical gauges is that the signal from the factory harness will need to be changed to work with aftermarket gauges from what I've read.

Cars can rust faster in a humid garage than sitting outside. A garage should have alot of ventilation. Not saying ther coating wasn't garbage but you may have a humidity problem as garage kept is not always a good thing.

 

[cdpsmw]

Just throwing this out there but umi makes a set of frame mounts that work with the factory ls engine mounts. Also has anyone heard of problems with the new aftermarket tanks not venting properly?

 

[Kansas Bu Wagon]

Figured I'd post this in here, I copied it from another post I replied to. Seems these stickys aren't being utilized to well.

For cooling it seems the easiest way is to get a dual passenger side radiator. The ls water pumps inlet and outlet point to the passenger side of the engine bay.

Please follow these links...

Ctsv oil pan kit: http://secure.ultracart.com/catalog/PSI ... -1013.html

Fbody oil pan kit: http://secure.ultracart.com/catalog/PSI ... -1013.html

Standalone harness for 6l80E trans and engine: http://secure.ultracart.com/catalog/PSI ... -1077.html

Fuel system: http://secure.ultracart.com/catalog/PSI ... -1013.html

Hooker swap kit thread: http://m.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1733542

The gbody swap thread: http://m.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=750522

I've done so much research on this that it's pathetic, so PLEASE take my advice and follow ALL of those links.

 

[skylarkul]

I've read comments on this forum as well as LS1 Tech about pax side clearance problems or having to modify the factory AC box to clear the #7 coil - some yes, some no. Can anyone clarify? Is it a matter of which mounts you choose?

Thanks. There is a ton of great info here.

 

[Kansas Bu Wagon]

I've read comments on this forum as well as LS1 Tech about pax side clearance problems or having to modify the factory AC box to clear the #7 coil - some yes, some no. Can anyone clarify? Is it a matter of which mounts you choose?

Thanks. There is a ton of great info here.

The Holley link I listed above talks a little about that. Holley motor mounts are supposed to clear the ac box with no trimming. Their swap parts should be released by Christmas time. It looks to be a little cheaper than the BRP stuff. And it's holley so you know it'll work.

 

[skylarkul]

I don't see the Holley link you mentioned but, visiting their web site, they offer a number of mounts that will move the engine forward, or back, or up. I have the "Chevy LS Engine Conversion Handbook" by Shawn Henderson. It's one of the best "how to" books I've seen. He, and others I've read recommend Dirty Dingo slider mounts. I'll be using my current 700-R4 or a 4L60E with a G-Force transmission cross member. I'll probably bolt up the engine and transmission and set it in, to see how it clears before buying the front mounts.

Thanks

 

[Kansas Bu Wagon]

I don't see the Holley link you mentioned but, visiting their web site, they offer a number of mounts that will move the engine forward, or back, or up. I have the "Chevy LS Engine Conversion Handbook" by Shawn Henderson. It's one of the best "how to" books I've seen. He, and others I've read recommend Dirty Dingo slider mounts. I'll be using my current 700-R4 or a 4L60E with a G-Force transmission cross member. I'll probably bolt up the engine and transmission and set it in, to see how it clears before buying the front mounts.

Thanks

[*]

Sorry I meant hooker. Their stuff isn't released just yet. But if you plan on using a gforce crossmember it won't work anyway.

 

[skylarkul]

I don't see the Holley link you mentioned but, visiting their web site, they offer a number of mounts that will move the engine forward, or back, or up. I have the "Chevy LS Engine Conversion Handbook" by Shawn Henderson. It's one of the best "how to" books I've seen. He, and others I've read recommend Dirty Dingo slider mounts. I'll be using my current 700-R4 or a 4L60E with a G-Force transmission cross member. I'll probably bolt up the engine and transmission and set it in, to see how it clears before buying the front mounts.

Thanks

[*]

Sorry I meant hooker. Their stuff isn't released just yet. But if you plan on using a G-Force cross member it won't work anyway.

You meant the motor mounts won't work, right? Since I'm already running the 700-R4 and G-Force cross member, hopefully, it should just be a matter of attaching the LS to the transmission and using the slider front mounts to attach the motor. Then come the test as to whether the right bank will clear the AC box. If not, it looks like the cross member or frame could be re-drilled to move it forward a little. I don't know if there is any up/down adjustment possible. Time will tell.

 

[Kansas Bu Wagon]

The hooker mounts are only 3/4" set back. To keep the trans in the stock location you supposedly need 1" setback.

Edited

 

[AndrewMrChevy]

The Hooker plates are Hooker 12623HKR for the G-body it puts the motor 1 1/4" forward which gives you the proper space on your fire wall. This then uses the SB Clam shell motor mounts and SB on frame mounts.